Madagascar

MADAGASCAR SAILING / CRUISING NOTES

Ketoro November 2009

(These notes only cover sailing in and around the Nosy Be area, NW Madagascar.)

Note that the chartplotter info is not always accurate; check headlands against radar and use the radar overlay/offset facility on the chart to correct or assess the discrepancies.

Money: Franc Malagasy (fmg) and Ariary (1 ariary = 5 fmg) and where US$1 = 1800Ar

Clearing in/out procedures

Anchor in Hell-Ville harbour: not good holding. Many boat-boys / wharf rats will try to get your work looking after the dinghy and helping with loading and also with boat cleaning: we recommend John (Rasta woolen cap on head) and possibly Romeo.

Go to Police (in a container office at harbour), customs (two separate offices), Port Authority, tourist office (cruising permit), immigration, etc. but you will need the help of one of the guys (Romeo appears to know his way around).

Frank +261 3205 30796 is a local accountant with offices close to the harbor and a useful contact who could advise on clearing in procedures.

Taxis cost 1,000Ariary per person per trip or 10,000Ar/hour.

Hell-Ville

This is the busy capital of Nosy Be; walk from the harbour into town past historic buildings and craft markets.

Shopping:

Hell-Ville market really excellent, good quality fruit and veg, reasonable prices (make sure you understand the currency they are quoting you in… there is an old and a new…. Take a notepad and get them to write everything down; ask them to quote prices in Ariary.) Seafood also good.

Shampion Supermarket expensive but has good range of cheeses, meats, imported goods; most yachties go to the supermarket of a Chinese man (shop called Akkam Olivier sp??) for good service and supplies.

Taxis have an excellent set-up: 40,000Ar for 4 hours and they are at your disposal to take you to any number of places, drop off your list, return later to collect etc. Pick up a taxi at the harbour or… better… anchor off Sakatia Towers; John (see details under Sakatia Island) will get his hotel boat to collect you at your boat and take you to Chanty Beach on Nosy Be where you will meet the taxi he organizes; do your shopping, return and John’s guy will collect you and your bags and drop you all off at your boat. Another 10,000Ar for that service in addition to the taxi fare.

Internet Café at Galleries in town.

Eating out (and super slow Wi-Fi): Ex pats all go to Nandiepo Bar; also lovely (but quieter) at Hotel del Mare.

Marine services: Yo Yo “the Frenchman” (near the Hell-Ville harbour) can help with most mechanical things!

General sailing comment for November in Nosy Be: in the mornings the light off-shore East wind predominated; in the afternoons the stronger west wind comes in; anchorages should be chosen with this in mind.

Sakatia Island

Anchorage in channel between Sakatia and Nosy Be islands, can be strong tidal currents. 13:18.055S 48:10.71E. Anchor off Sakatia Towers: run by John Sheppard (+261 3202 01986) very friendly to yachts (ex-cruiser / racer); sundowners at the lodge at 5pm daily. Snorkelling fair.  John is a great source of all local knowledge, sourcing stuff and getting things done.

Use dinghy to explore beaches on E side of Sakatia and around to a long beach on the north. Diving can be organized through lodges… apparently very good.

Also anchor off Sakatia Lodge in 8m sand 13:18.915E 48:09.659E. Run by Jose, also friendly; more up-market place really beautiful and good snorkelling.  Specialises in scuba diving.

Tani Kely Island

Beautiful small island (marine reserve), wonderful snorkelling. Anchor E of island 100m off beach in 10-15m over sand to 5m over sand or on sand spit S of island for anchorage in 7m 13:29.100S 48:14.360E; dive or snorkel from the boat. Go onshore and walk to the lighthouse etc.

Russian (Helondranon) Bay

Approaching from east, stay 0.5nm offshore until can head due S through middle of entrance. Beautiful huge bay, escape from cyclones, several anchorages. Anchorage in eastern bay: 13:32.895S 48:02.440S; anchorage behind sand spit off village on west side near entrance: 13:32.106S 47:59.924E. Walk in village, fresh water from river (mosquitoes), braai on beautiful beach, pretty snorkelling towards the spit of sand at entrance to bay.

Nose Komba

Very touristy island but worth seeing; lovely village Ampangorinana, good water supply from taps on beach; decent restaurant at each end of the beach; craft market with lovely table cloths etc; go early morning into Lemur reserve behind the village.

Anchor at 13:26.569S 48:21.140E in 10m sand. Approach: when Nosy Verona (with old lighthouse) bears 020.

Nosy Be: Lokobe Reserve

This anchorage is at the back of the Lokobe Reserve / mountain, at a small river mouth; very pretty walk along the beach and up the river into the reserve. Anchor at 13:24.854S 48:20.277E – between the little river mouth and the large house on the beach (rarely occupied).

Nose Iranja

Stunning island in 2 halves: one with expensive hotel (not welcoming to yachts but will allow drink at bar) one at other end of a sand spit (covered at high tide) with village and bush; great for walking (mangroves other side). Anchorage discouraged in front of lodge except short-term; anchorage is south side of spit (unsure of following for anchorage: 13:37.30S 47:50.60E and 13:44.50S 47:33.00E). Other documents advise the following: ‘anchor S or W of island in 4-6m over sand; anchor E of small island in sand patches 3m depth.’ Approach from S but care with occasional coral heads. Iranja means turtle and this island is turtle sanctuary.

Barahamamay River and bay

Navigable for 2M inland; good sheltered anchorage. Bay recognised as gap in coastline (charts are not accurate – check actual position of headlands with radar before following chartplotter); keep gap bearing 110 and once in, favour N side of river for deeper water. Anchor past villages in 8m over sand and mud. 13:42.83S 47:54.17E Beautiful river; escape from cyclones; lovely village to stroll; buy wild honey in bottles (check that it has not been watered down); lovely crab restaurant… inform the owners the day before or the morning you coming.

Nose Tsara Bajina

Beautiful private island with upmarket lodge, but amenable to yachts; mooring buoy or anchor nearby over 10m sand (report to hotel reception if using the buoy).  Bar and restaurant available but only during day. Beautiful snorkeling from boat or take dinghy to rocks on SE side of island (the closer of the two outcrops of rocks here) and dive the ones closer in…. Wonderful!

Iles Mitsios: Maribe Bay

Bay very protected from most winds; used as an overnight base to go out for daysails and / or go fishing. Anchored in 6m sand 12:54.620S 48:34.689E

North of Madagascar: safe anchorage on passage up or down: Nosy Hara

12:14.597S 49:00.301E