Maldives Cruising Notes:
Ketoro
April/May 2010; March/April
2013
These notes
follow from south (Addu Atoll) to Gaarfaru Atoll further north. In the Maldives
during March to May, we saw change of season and SW winds started to set in (SW
Monsoon: May – October and NE Monsoon: November – April). This affected our
anchorages both in choice and experience.
Addu Atoll (seenu)
Gan Island
Entry to
harbour:
No chart
that we have seen shows the harbour that yachts are meant to anchor in when
visiting Gan, and yachties must not expect a “harbour” when reading of this
inner harbour. However, the Navionics chart is accurate for the Addu Atoll and Gan
itself (as, apparently, is C-Map). We used the following waypoints to enter the
atoll from the south: 00.42.204S/73.10.556E, then 00.41.862S/73.10.569E and finally
00.41.529S/73.10.79E. We entered the pass 2 hours after low tide at springs and
found the least depth to be 14.8m: very easy.
It is then
only 1.5 miles to the small boat anchorage (harbour) adjacent to / east of the
causeway between Gan and Feydhoo islands where you may anchor (or you may
choose to anchor just outside, where it is deep but has the benefit of no flies
or mosquitoes, apparently!). Once inside the atoll we called Gan Port Control
on VHF 16 and eventually the Coast Guard answered (other yachts got no answer
from anyone). Either way, enter and anchor and the authorities will show up in
a Coast Guard boat within a couple of hours.
There are channel markers but it is essential to also have a visual on
the reefs alongside the harbour entrance.
Harbour entrance
channel waypoint: we used 00.41.04S/073.08.74E.
Channel and harbour markers: the entrance is indicated by two pole markers (leave
to S/B) and a small white buoy indicating a bommie (you may leave to port or SB,
but it is deeper if you leave this to SB on entry). Depth in the channel is reported
to be 2.5 metres, we saw a minimum of 2.8m.
Once inside the Coast Guard and police vessels and taxis are on the wall
to port as you enter, and in front of you is a causeway with four small sluice
gates then 2 larger ones. The water comes through the gates quite quickly –
regardless of state of tide. The
strongest stream is through the big sluice so try to avoid anchoring near them
(sand has also been washed away from the sluice area, leaving poor holding).
We anchored in
4.3m good holding sand at 00.41.137S/73.08.627E. We have been here with 5
yachts inside this tiny basin.
In 2010 we
tied our dinghy up at the police jetty / steps near the causeway and on the
causeway side of the steps to be out of the way of the ferries and hotel boats that
also used these steps; however in 2013 the jetty / steps had been removed and
we tied up on the causeway wall or put the dinghy on the small beach to the west
(very rocky).
Clearing in procedures:
Fly your Q flag. The coast guard brings all the departments
(police, immigration, port control, customs, health) out to the boat and the
process is easy and quick, the officials being friendly and courteous. You are
required to itemise your alcohol stores (and, in 2013, stocks of medicines on
board) and of course have the normal crew lists etc. (about six copies of this
and skippers passport and boat registration).
Spear guns declared or discovered are confiscated and it is tedious to
get them back when you leave.
For clearing-in and out procedures it is desirable (and
compulsory if staying longer than 72 hours) to use an agent. In 2010 we used
Mas-ood Saeed (Contact details: +960 7906609, (MNS Maldives Pvt Ltd +960 689
3433), fax +960 6893432; mns@dhinet.net.mv
or masood_mns@hotmail.com; web www.mnsmaldives.com.)
In 2013 our agent was Hussain Shuhaiz (phone +9609997548) who appeared to also
‘work with’ Masood.
It is necessary to e mail the agent 48 hours before arrival
in the Maldives.
Cruising
permits:
2013
comment: In 2010 we had a great deal of difficulty with cruising permits, Subsequent to
our Maldives cruising experiences in 2010, and the new structures brought in on
1 June 2010, changed fee structures and a different attitude seems to prevail.
Facilities
in Addu Atoll:
Four islands
are joined by causeways, making them very accessible. We hired a motorbike
through Shuhaiz (2010 - $15 for a day) to enjoy the islands; we walked Gan and
Feydhoo islands and we took the dinghy to the working harbour on Feydhoo
regularly as Feydhoo has more to offer than Gan! We also caught the ferry to
Medhoo (40 minutes) where we were taken around the island on motorbikes by
friends of Mas-ood and Shuhaiz (actually the ferry driver!). It was a treat to
have local people show us around and they asked nothing for it (but we gave a
donation). We took the dinghy to the reef drop-off in front of the Equator
resort and snorkelling was fair.
Dollars are
accepted at most of the bigger shops at around the exchange rate quoted by the
banks and Rufiyaa can therefore be obtained here for smaller local purchases.
ATM’s appear to work okay.
Gan Island (South of the causeway)
Refuse:
Trash bins are here but not collected very often.
Internet: To the right, over the road you see a green fence; this enters the
Youth Centre where the internet is.
The mobile phone companies also offer SIM cards for data – service was fast 3G
in 2013.
Shops: a few curio shops with some supplies too; you can rent motorbikes from
Causeway.
Post Office (on way to the airport): very limited working hours!
Restaurants: restaurant at the Equator resort (expensive but they have booze!)
and airport café restaurant in a garden opposite airport buildings.
There is apparently a Met service at the airport.
Feydhoo Island
(North of
causeway)
- Shopping:
Wataniya cell phones and
internet cards (red-and-white building near fishing harbour); (MNS, our
agent, is in this building and they can arrange the card/phone for you);
2+1 Store (near the top of the
island, at old petrol station; small beach nearby for dinghy landing);
Mohamed Saeed 6898509: This gentleman offered us a fantastic service - we
gave him the list of fresh fruit and veg we needed and he got it in from
Male two days later. Highly recommended. The store also has a range of
other regular items.
3S Trading (opposite petrol
station at fishing harbor); Hussain Rasheed: good selection including some
fresh; have wholesale specials in drinks (alcohol-free); free delivery to
the police jetty on Gan (by bicycle).
Gold Mart 9993020; 7776792 (from
the main road, turn left about 30m before red-and-white MNS building then
take second road left, find second building LHS); good stores, some fresh,
cheese etc;
Happy Trading (along main road
in a big grey shed just before old fuel station). They supply the stores
in town. You can get some fresh here, and frozen chicken. Get your
non-alcoholic beer here (Bavaria; the regular malt; non-fruit-flavoured:
it is actually quite good!)
- Restaurants:
Generally: Maldivians have short eats and long eats; the latter are meals
and the former are small savoury or sweet snacks to fill a hole in your
tummy: delicious and incredibly cheap!! Ask if the restaurant has short
eats… but check on quality and freshness.
Coffee Max and the Eye Café on waterfront near fishing harbour: touristy
but good value.
Line café (?) closer to the harbour is less touristy but has a smaller
menu (good food).
- Fuel: New fuel station at the harbor; old fuel
station on main road a hundred metres from the fishing harbor, near the
top of Feydhoo. 2013 Diesel: 17.30Rf/l.
(1USD = Rf15.40)
Diesel: the agent can arrange that the fuel truck comes to the police
jetty and you ferry cans; you can also apparently take your boat to the harbour
and get fuel directly from the truck, which parks on the quay wall – but
agent to arrange this. The brave and those with steel boats could come
alongside the wharf at the police jetty and re-fuel directly from the
truck.
Petrol/gasoline: take dinghy or 15-20 min walk to fuel station at working
harbour to get petrol or kerosene.
LPG: bottle exchange system, no filling of own bottles.
Islands further north
Banking:
main road on the third island, easy by bike or dinghy (working harbour in front
of bank). Air-conditioned ATM on the RHS of the bank building. NB: money changing
(for US$) can be done in most of the shops who can sometimes give marginally
better rates but are much more convenient.
Farms on
Hithadoo island (possible source of fresh produce; was used by yachties we met).
SOUTH HUVADHOO ATOLL (gaafu dhaalu)
Faress Island, and the two uninhabited islands towards
Vaadhoo Kuda Kandu, have a narrow sand patch in front of the reef. It shelves
from about 5m to 10m. We anchored in 7m sand at 00:11.925N 73:12.882E.
Sheltered from SW and W.
Vaadhoo Kuda Kandu nearby is an easy passage.
Snorkelling in the kandu area shows a great deal of relatively young coral.
North Huvadhoo Atoll (Gaafu Alifu)
Melaimu,
north of Kolomaafushi Island. This was a great anchorage; the pass (Viligili Kandu)
on the NW was easy to find and very wide. Strangely, there is a whole island to
port of the passage which is not on the Navionics chart, at 00:52N 73:11.3E. We
entered the passage from 00:51.867N 73:11.002E and anchored in two places: in
2010, in 8m good holding sand at 00:50.884N 73:11.049E; but in 2013 we were
less brave and dropped in 7.5m at 00:51.187N 73:11.007E where there is more
sand and less bommie. The anchorage is a bit exposed to a northerly roll from
the kandu, but the reefs give good protection from the sea from NW to SW.
Snorkelling
the reef, both further up towards the passage and bommie areas, was superb! Rays,
sharks, good coral, big shoals of fish. In 2010 we were approached by local
fisherman who gave us a rainbow runner for supper in exchange for cigarettes
and soft drinks (they had asked for booze). They were proud of their catch of a
sailfish. In 2013 crew from a nearby anchored fishing boat approached to chat
and request beer… they got cigarettes instead.
KOLHUMADULU ATOLL (thaa)
Veymandhoo Island
Veymandhoo Island is on the southern tip of the atoll,
which we entered via broad Veymandhoo Kandu to the east of the Island. We kept
the island and reef to port. There is a fairly large entrance that takes you
into a busy harbour, after which is the lagoon entrance, entered from 02:11.5N
73:05.9E. It consists of two man-made piles of rubble as channel liners, with a
pole to port on the outside and a pole to SB on the inside. We saw well over 4
metres in the channel. Once through the entrance, there is a floating structure
ahead, and a bommie to SB; we went between these two and then watched for the
occasional bommies (some are marked by poles). We anchored in 7metres in sand at
02:11.292N and 73 05.296E.
The town (capital of the Atoll) had a good supermarket
(frozen chicken and a fair variety of vegetables and fruit), and we had good
short eats near the old jetty.
WESTERN ATOLLS: S to N
SOUTH NILANDHOO ATOLL (dhaalu)
Kedhigadu Island
Kedhigadu is an uninhabited island near (NW of) Kudahuvadhoo
at the southern end of the atoll. We entered the atoll via a passage on the
west, and it was easy, in good light, to travel down inside the atoll. We had
information on Kudahuvadhoo and were heading there, but the two uninhabited
islands of Kedhigadu and Maafushi looked beautiful, and as we approached them
directly from inside the atoll we found the reef of the lagoon area very thin,
only crossing a 9m-deep “bar” to get into the lagoon. The lagoon had depths of
8 – 17m throughout, but with occasional bommies. We anchored at 02:41.852N 72:51.346E
in 12m. It is somewhat exposed to the north.
This is a fantastic spot, with beautiful islands and
great snorkelling at the small wall between you and the island. Some friendly
local fishermen came for a visit and to invite us to the island, but we had no
need to go there.
nortH NILANDHOO ATOLL (faafu)
Magoodhoo Island
Magoodhoo is on the SE corner of the atoll. We entered the atoll through
Maavaashi Kandu (SW entry); it is an easy, deep broad kandu. Crossing the atoll
was easy and we approached Magoodhoo Island from the west.
The reef enclosing the lagoon has a fairly obvious entry channel at its
north end (seen by water colour differences in good light) but is also
indicated by buoys. We entered the channel through the reef at 03:05.14N
72:57.12E; leave the white buoy to port and then the black buoy to S/B taking
care not to approach these buoys too closely. The channel is deep, over 12
metres, and the lagoon is generally deep, sand-bottomed, with some bommies,
easily seen in good light. We anchored in 10 metres at 03:04.85N 72:57.49 E.
There is good snorkelling: a drift snorkel at the entrance to the lagoon
from white buoy, then at the bommie indicated by black buoy. A large bommie
further into the lagoon was wonderful for snorkelling. When we anchored there
was foul water around us, trapped by the encircling reef… but it attracted two
huge manta rays, which then spent two hours feeding around the boat!
The town is interesting and people are very friendly; we were visited on
the boat by three gentlemen who welcomed us with coconuts, and we bought fish
from another informative man. The town’s harbour is on the north side of the
island; it is lit at night but apparently not suitable for yachts.
south Ari Atoll (Alifu Dhaalu)
Maamigili Island
This is a useful stop to
catch the ferry or fly to Male, but it is functional. The dinghy may be taken
to the beach on the SE end of the lagoon to walk to the ferry terminal (2013: ferries
Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, leave at 8am, arrive Male 3pm); or take dinghy to
the jetty along the main channel and follow the road alongside the outer island
edge to reach the airport (short walk). There is a small village.
The lagoon may be entered as
follows: line up from 03:29.24N 72:49.75E; go between the two piles of rocks (course
of approx. 190; port rocks have a pole-marker) and there is a dredged channel
going straight to the new wharf; there is a shallow area on the port side,
indicated by a white buoy; keep this to port if approaching the wharf or main
channel and keep it to SB if entering the lagoon anchorage. Least depth seen in
channel entry was 4m. There are also other pairs of poles to the right that
indicate the presence of other channels leading to the two island resorts west
of the entrance.
To anchor in the quiet area
in the east of the lagoon, after entering the channel, turn to port at 03:28.99N
72:49.74E, i.e. before the white-buoyed shallow area, and leave the buoy and
shallow area to S/B. This is a natural channel between the reef and shallow
area, and we continued until dropping the anchor in 9m at 03:28.9N 72:50.0E.
Arriving at dusk on a
previous day, and not knowing the lagoon, we anchored in 5m at 03:28.778N
72:49.685E as bottom visibility was poor; this was an awkward anchorage as we
had considerable resort traffic passing us, but we were safe.
Dhigurah / Dhidhdhoo Island
On the east side of the
atoll, this is a dream anchorage in a large, beautiful lagoon serving Dhigurah
Island in the north and Dhidhdhoo Island further down, with Lux resort (previously
Ari Beach, previously White Sands). This is a resort that welcomes and seeks
yachtie patronage; the village people further up are also most welcoming: they
have recently built a guest house of which they are all proud.
The beautiful lagoon is easy
to enter, with good snorkelling patches as well as excellent snorkelling on the
reef. Although there is an entrance between two poles opposite the resort, we
were advised (by Ali, who sails the resort catamaran) not to use it and he took
us to the recommended entrance towards the top of the lagoon. Enter from 03:31.92N
72:54.42E at good light; the entrance is fairly short and at low tide we had 3.5m
water. The lagoon is mostly clear of bommies, and those there are easily seen.
There is a huge expanse for
anchoring; anchorage with island overview far from resort: 03:31.25N 72:54.98E
in 10m; or anchor at 03:31.99N 72:55.46E in 11m to access the village on the
north of the island; or anchor at 03:30.274N 72:53.842E (near their catamaran,
which has buoy) to access the resort. Lux resort contact details: 6680901 /
6680513 / 7303600 (Dominik, GM).
Rangali Island
There is a lagoon here,
easily approached from the SE, that serves the Conrad Rangali Hotel (previously
Hilton); we would not recommend it simply because, despite 5 phone calls and 6
e-mails requesting permission (ostensibly not received) after we anchored to
discuss further with our telephone contact we were chased from the lagoon (by
security) and informed by text message and subsequent call that we were seen as
a security risk to their high-end guests.
Innafushi / Thundufushi
We had information re
anchoring in this area which we found to be incorrect, so did not anchor here.
Moofushi Island
The Moofushi Island resort
is highly recommended for its welcoming attitude; we were allowed to use a
mooring buoy at 03:53.080N 72:43.816E for two days, and enjoyed the facilities
offered by this busy, relaxed resort as well as the good snorkelling on the
house reef. (They asked to make copies of our passports). Phone 6680517 /
3326141 / 7658209
north Ari Atoll (Alifu alifu)
Halaveli Island
We entered Ari Atoll via the
Fussaru Kandu, which is due east of Halaveli island. The Navionics chart did
not identify a shallow area at 04:02.5N 72:57.1E; we left this to port.
Halaveli Lagoon was entered
at 04:02.65N 72:55.17E ; it was low-tide, rising, and we had minimum depth of 2m.
We identified the entry by the pole markers; the scraped channel is wide;
beware the reef on the port side when you are inside.
Anchoring was done in sand, 10m,
at 04:02.41N 72:55.04E and there is a good snorkel along the outside of the sea
wall in front of the ‘President’s House’ (to port, entering the lagoon).
Halaveli contact number is
6660010 / 3343613; we did not phone beforehand, but security came to the boat
and they were happy to welcome us.
Bathalaa Island
We simply used this as a
snorkel-stop, along a very good wall, although the security welcomed us to use
the resort facilities. The mooring buoy was at 04:04.108N 72:56.646E
EASTERN ATOLLS: S to N
Muluka Atoll (Meemu)
This was a
wonderful anchorage in a reef-defined 6mile long lagoon on the SE section of
Meemu, S of Muli island. It looks onto about 8 small islands: Muli, the main
island, 2 with stilted resorts, and some which appeared uninhabited.
Entry to
Mulee Kandu: 02:55.896N 73:35.289E. We saw 16m once, but generally the depth
was over 25m.
Inner kandu WPT: 02:55.859N 73:34.821E (32m depth here). There were boats
anchored in the pass; we saw rays and dolphins going in. We then turned towards
the SW to travel down inside the atoll with the lagoon (and inner reef) on the
port side.
Muli island
has a good, clean harbour with a clear entry on its north end and 2 other
entries (these seemed not as wide or clear). The harbour north entry comes
directly after you have entered the atoll via the Kandu, and the south entry is
into the north end of the lagoon (we do not know width, depth etc.). The third entry is in the west sea wall to
the harbor and is well marked.
To find the
lagoon channel entry from the atoll (which is about 1.5M down from the kandu)
look for a small island / landfill which comes up on radar. Keep the island to
port and the yellow/black pole on rock to S/B. Channel entry WPT: 02:54.280N
73:34.008E. This should be traversed in good visibility. At mid-tide we saw
2.8m going in. There are many bommies in the lagoon but they are well marked
with floating buoys/jerry cans (at least until the first resort); however go in
down the S/B side (west side) which has fewer bommies.
The entire
lagoon appears to be about 7 metres with sand bottom. We anchored near Hakuraahuraa Island at
02:51.873N 73:33.086E in 6m sand; good holding.
We took the dinghy to Hakurra Club Resort for a drink and enjoyed
watching the sea planes and local dhonis. Snorkelling was good, once we had
identified (through watching the resort boats) which bommies to go to!
Felidhoo Atoll (Vaavu)
Interesting
atoll with few islands and mostly drying areas and reefs. Sailing from the
south, we went to a sandy lagoon area entering through Maafussaru Kandu at
mid-tide with the tide going out. We were shocked to find (2010) that light No
2 (Fl6 etc), which on the Navionics Raymarine chart is the entry marker to the
pass, is in fact found further south (apparently not at a pass?). Maafussaru
Kandu entrance is, rather, indicated by a dry area with a rock and pole. In all
other respects (ie other than the light) the chart plotter was very accurate
for this area.
The pass is
wide and there is a tidal race into it; we felt a push to port on entering. We
used for channel entrance 03:30.586N 73:17.039E then went to 03:30.42N
73:17.38E. The pass generally has depths of 20+m, but a few minimum depth areas
of about 8m. Follow the reef around towards the south; we saw the following
WPTs: 03:29.750N 73:17.640E then 03:29.240N 73:17.800E after which we used COG
235M. Depths were over 20m but good visibility is required for occasional
bommies.
We anchored
in 14m at 03:29.278N 73:17.209E; the whole inner lagoon area has sand about 17m
but there are patches of 10m.
There is
excellent snorkelling at the tip of the reef before turning into the lagoon and
back along this reef, at the drop-off.
South Male Atoll
Velassaru Falhu / Velassaru Island
Entry points
through Velassaru Kanduolhi channel: (outer) 04:07.472N 73:26.640E; (mid)
04:07.308N 73:26.657E; (inner) 04:07.058N 73:26.580E. Depths mainly greater
than 20m but we saw 8m 2hours before high tide.
Entered the
lagoon from 04:06.402N 73:26.082E then 04:06.445N 73:26.004E.
Anchored in
12m sand with good holding at 04:07.056N 73:25.878E near Velassaru Island
Resort (previously called Laguna). The resort was in the process of opening
after re-branding and, being only partially occupied, was very welcoming; we e
mailed ahead of time. Present yourself at reception and they meet with you to
inform you of all the facilities available. The resort is upmarket and prices
are high; we found the food good but expensive (burger US$28 in 2010 compared
with a blog that we read that referred to US$11); we were welcome to use pool,
internet etc.
Eboodhoofinolhu Island
Although the
Taj resort was very welcoming when we called them, after entering Enboodhoo
Kandu and then their lagoon and being advised to anchor near their dhonis, we
decided not to remain there as the SW winds were too strong and seas too rolly.
In different conditions it has potential for a good anchorage.
Eboodhoo Island
This island looks interesting and the manager at the resort
bungalows was helpful when called. They have 2 mooring buoys on the east side
and he said we could take one from 5pm to 12 midday, however we needed to find
anchorage for the day until 5pm and a potential anchorage on the west was
unsuitable in our SW seas so we did not take up the offer. This looks like a
great island to visit however.
north male Atoll (Kaafu)
Hulhumale Island
Clearing
in: In 2010 we
anchored in the Hulhulmale Lagoon anchorage (Hulhulmale Lagoon; entrance
04-12.766N / 73-31.754E) where our agent arranged for all officials to come to
the boat. However in 2013 this system was not in place and we drifted in an
area west of Male for the authorities to come to the boat .
Our agents
have been from SEAL Superyachts / Antrac (Abdul Hannan +960 331 0096 /
Mobile +960 777 5644; Hussain Fahmy +99607914520). While expensive, they
are knowledgeable, well-connected and competent (in dealing with our unorthodox
clearing in / out and extended stay, clearing in spares shipments, arranging
for a mechanic onto the boat, crew changes, visa extensions, etc, and generally
getting things done.)
General
comment on this harbour:
Others have
spoken of bad holding and that many boats use 2 anchors. We found the holding
exceptionally good for our Rocna anchor but noticed that all the safari boats
use 3 anchors of a light grapnel-type to reduce their swinging; their line is
also floating rope and requires care and a sharp eye when moving around the
anchorage. However, this is a very poor anchorage in any winds and seas with a
westerly component as it becomes very rolly and uncomfortable; we had a week of
winds over 20 knots (often going up to gale force) and had virtually no shelter and
hence great discomfort.
Dinghies can
be tied up to the jetty adjacent to the ferry terminal, but this jetty serves all the dinghies for the safari boats and any other
craft, other than the ferries, and is therefore busy. Better to tie to the
concrete wharf adjacent to the jetty in this area. We found the risk of slamming the dinghy into
the concrete wall too great, so we used a stern anchor and tied a long bow line
onto hooks set into the concrete wharf. In 2013 the conditions had not improved
but our dinghy was three years older and the lagoon more sheltered in the
prevailing northerly winds and we dispensed with the stern anchor.
Facilities:
Ferries run to Male frequently (5.50Rf; 20 min trip). Male
wakes up about 13:30/14:00 mostly; good produce market but it has only
Maldivian produce; for the rest seek out the Indian shops further east. There
are many small supermarkets and the one at the STO building is excellent, as is
Fantasy Store. Male water is evidently not suitable for drinking.
Potable
water is available the hard way – retail purchase in max 5l plastic containers
(at about Rf2/litre) and taxi to the jetty (taxis are a standard price of 20Rf
per trip, sometimes 25Rf if luggage is involved) and dinghy transfer to the
yacht. Best done when the SW winds are not howling as these produce 1m waves in
the anchorage.
Internet
access: there are many Wi-Fi places: one in the courtyard outside the STO supermarket,
one at Bistro Jade (Boduthakurufaarnu Magu near where ferry comes in: turn
right and head for town): they have free I-N access and good food (Jade food
expensive).
Eating out:
there are many good restaurants and tea/coffee houses, all worth a try. For
local food, try ½ Time; more tourist, try Seagull Restaurant; for really lovely
but more pricey try Aioli.
Diving /
snorkelling: we took the dinghy from Hulhumale lagoon (out via the north
passage) to Banana Reef at 04-14.314N / 73-32.2E: great reef; the northern and southern walls have different characters.
Diesel fuel
is by fuel barge that comes alongside / astern – arranged by your agent or
directly. The diesel is very clean and good. (US1.15 / litre in 2013).
Thulusdhoo Island
Thulusdhoo
island is popular as it has a shallow, well protected anchorage that is not
under the control of a resort and therefore freely accessed.
Entry into
the atoll through the pass from the sea looks intimidating as a break in the
surf is not immediately apparent when approaching from the north. However the
pass is approached at an angle and the Raymarine Navionics chart was accurate.
Pass into
the lagoon is marked by 2 sets of port/starboard beacons / pole markers. The
centre of the pass is at 04:22:685N 73:38:884E and we saw a least depth of 5.6m
at low tide.
We anchored at 04:22.620N 73:38.830E in good holding sand.
People in
the village are very welcoming and gave us a tour (tie the dinghy up on the
jetty or pull onto beach); there is excellent surfing outside the atoll here.
Himmafushi Island
Himmafushi island
similarly has a shallow, well protected anchorage that is open to public use.
There are 2
passes into the lagoon: one at the north, one the south opposite the resort.
Northern
pass into lagoon: 2 sets of double stakes with lights; waypoint 04:18.719N
73:33.776E. 2 hours before low tide we saw 3.7m.
We first
anchored in 6.4m sand/coral with good holding at 04:18.549N 73:33.931E and the
next night closer to the resort at Lankanfushi in 7.5m at 04:18.364N
73:33.658E.
Southern
pass into lagoon: 04:17.927N 73:33.209E. There are 2 markers at the entrance
and a single marker at the inner end to keep to S/B; however we did not use
this pass as it appeared shallow.
Meerenfushi Island
This is a resort island; on calling Meeru Island Resort we
were told we could not visit the resort but were welcome to anchor in their
lagoon.
We entered
the lagoon via the northern pass and followed the marker poles into the
anchorage area off the resort where their boats were situated. Within moments
of anchoring, however, a boat had been sent from the resort ordered us to
leave. As it was almost dark (and we had had to pick our way in through
bommies) we asked that they send a dhoni to guide us, which they did, and we
followed it out again into the lagoon where we anchored in 9.2m sand at 04:27.105N
73:42.454E.
We would not
recommend this anchorage as it was very rolly. It may be that the anchorage is
better (and welcome….. warmer!) at the village further into the lagoon.
Eriyadhoo Island
Resort
welcomes yachties and has placed mooring buoys on the south east side of the
island (those on the south west side are for the resort boats). Phone or e mail
ahead of time (they responded to our mail the day after sending).
Resort has a
great house reef, and we dived the wall along the east side to find excellent
coral and plentiful fish. Food at the resort was affordable, compared with many
other resorts (e.g. buffet dinner $20 compared with $50 at some other resorts).
Helengeli Island
Entering the
atoll via the pass: 04:38.049N 73:34.077E then 04:37.802N 73:33.792E. Depths
were generally 20m but there is a sand bar about 10m deep near the entrance,
which drops off again.
This resort
island was very friendly and welcoming (we requested in advance to come to the
island, as we had friends staying there) but anchoring is not easy. They have a harbor: the inner section is
full of their own boats and the outer section (from 2.5m to 8m deep) had no
tie-up facilities. We found a pinnacle and anchored in 10m at 04:37.849N
73:33.350E. The holding was sandy coral rubble so okay for us in the very light
conditions we experienced. Take the dinghy to the harbour (indicated by a port
marker and the jetty on the S/B side) and either pull up onto the beach or tie
up on the wall in the inner harbour.
Gaafaru Atoll
This is the furthest north we went; Gaafaru is a wonderful
atoll with only one or two small islands above the surface of the sea (one with
a village: we did not go to it as the area close by had too many bommies for us
to cope with on anchor!)
There are
two major passes into the atoll: on the NE and NW. We anchored on both the W
and E sides and highly recommend the western anchorage for having easy access
off the boat to lovely snorkeling and a great wall dive nearby (get to it
directly from the boat or off the dinghy) beautiful at about 15m depth; very
little current on both occasions we did the dive.
NW pass and
anchorage: an easy pass, depth greater than 20m; entrance 04:46.308N
73:23.796E; then 04:46.108N 73:23.895E and 04:45.930N 73:24.034E. We anchored
at 04:45.945N 73:23.642E
NE pass and
anchorage: more difficult as it has a strong tide and reef makes a T-junction in
front; depths greater than 8m. Entrance 04:46.556N 73:27.780E; then 04:46.313N
73:27.728E and 04:46.185N 73:27.763E. We anchored at 04:45.220N 73:29.178E;
only do this with good visibility as there are many bommies.
