Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Thailand


THAILAND SAILING / CRUISING NOTES


July 2010 – September 2012
Ketoro is a 40’ Admiral catamaran with a 1.2m draft. The anchoring depths given are all under the keel.

These notes cover all anchorages we have experienced in the following areas: the west side of Phuket; the islands south of Phuket; Phang Nga Bay, also Krabi side; the mainland and islands north of Phuket to the Myanmar border; the Surin and Similan Islands; and the islands on routes down to Malaysia.


1                   Phuket Island West Coast


These anchorages should only be used in the NE monsoon season. Areas are covered from north to south.
Nai Yang
Anchored in 3m at 08:05.518N 98:17.737E. Lovely long beach with many loungers, massage, eating opportunities; great market on Tues, Thursdays, Saturdays. Take dinghy to beach near mid beach, a few metres north of the longtail anchorage; beware if taking the dinghy to the north end of the beach opposite the park as the water is rougher for landings here. Can be noisy at night with all the firecrackers and parties!


Ko Waeo
A nice day stop to snorkel around the small rock island; many mooring buoys available. We have also stayed overnight at 08:02.030N 98:15.584E and for calm conditions it was good.


Ko Kala
Anchored in 4.5m at 08:01.652N 98:17.125E. Very calm tucking in behind island, great rustic restaurant with good food on shore: Tomato. Take dinghy up left of the dive-flag poles or even further left, to be in the protection of the island therefore less swell. Lovely beach walking in this area, tide recedes far and leaves pretty sand patterns etc. River behind island can be explored at high tide; give yourself 2 hours (take water/drinks) to explore fishing boats, river, lagoon.


Ao Ban Thao
Anchored in 8m at 08:00.369N 98:17.354E. Long beach serving many resorts. Two young elephants (from Fantasea Show) are taken to the beach for tourist entertainment at 9:30 and 15:00.


Surin Beach
Anchored in 11m at 07:58.504N 98:16.517E. Beautiful small beach; best to get the dinghy onto the beach where the jet skis are based. Good range of restaurants and massage places. Can also take mooring buoys in front of Pla Seafood restaurant, they have rolly jetty in high season.


Laem Sing
Anchor 8m at 07:57.933N 98:16.627E. Pretty small beach, serviced with regular food/massage etc; only access from the road is steep rough path. Anchored off the lovely rock/tree area to keep away from longtails.


Kamala Beach
Anchored in 6m at 07:57.576N 98:16.757E. Nice beach; particularly beautiful at night time.


Patong Bay
Anchored in 4.5m at 07:53.323N 98:17.239E. Huge bay, many anchoring opportunities. In high season there is a long dinghy jetty onto the beach (at southern end) but it is best to keep a short distance away from this as there are many boats going to and from it, causing wake.


Freedom Bay
Anchored in 11m at 07:52.554N 98:16.362E. Beautiful small bay, used in day time by many longtails with day trippers but at night you will probably be alone in the bay. Nice snorkeling especially deeper at the rocks; we tied the dinghy onto the buoyed swimming line demarcation.  The beach in front of the resort at the north end of bay is fringed by coral at low tide.


Kata Beach
Anchored in 7m at 07:48.963N 98:17.759E. This is a long beach; on the north half is the Club Med and south of this is the general beach. Restaurants on the beach range from very pricey (top few) to reasonable (the two in the southern corner).


Nai Harn
Anchored in 10m at 07:46.431N 98:18.251E and in 10m at 07:46.385N 98:18.169E. Access to the beach by dinghy can be very difficult; most dinghies head down the buoy line demarcating the swim zone, or make for Jungle beach at the north end of the bay where there is a very small dinghy landing spot on the sand.  Some also swim into the main beach to get directly to the restaurants, massages, shops, etc. (The channel between the small island and Phuket may be used with care; err towards the island side where the shelf is more abrupt and visible.)


2                   South of Phuket


Ko Hae (Hi) – Coral Island
This anchorage gives good protection from winds and swells from the S and SW. 
We anchored at 07:44.871N 98:22.441E in 14m excellent holding. Took the dinghy to the beach, spoke to dive people who said snorkeling was best off Banana Beach where we took the dinghy (tied it off on the buoyed marker rope on the east side of the boat channel) and really enjoyed the snorkel in the slightly deeper area.



On another occasion, we anchored the boat off Banana Beach for the day’s snorkel, in about 17m: 07:44.774N 98:23.008E. We were happy with leaving the boat for a few hours, but would not have anchored there overnight. They now have buoys at 07:44.771N 98:22.981E.
Ko Racha Yai
In the SW monsoon season we anchored on the E side of the island, which is the back door to the main beaches and facilities but it is a short walk across the island! We anchored in 4m at 05:12.923N 99:03.978E. Walked the island but places were closed for the low season; the up-market resorts are all the other side, best to go NE season!


In the NE season we went to a bay on the west side. There are many mooring buoys; during the day most are taken up by day trippers and dive boats but if you get there later they may be free. Some buoys look to be too close to each other. If not available, anchor off in the bay in 10-15m.


3                   Phang Nga Bay Area


We were here in both the SW and NE monsoon seasons, dictating anchorages: on the East side of the islands in the SW monsoon and west of the island during the NE monsoon.
Ao Po Marina Call 69
07:48.955N 98:17.711E Better in SW season, they may be exposed in a very strong NE wind, although there are new breakwaters built. Restaurant nice but expensive; few services.

Ko Wa Yai
In the channel on the way to Yacht Haven marina; anchored in 6.5m at 08:07.278N 98:26.479E. Small beach, easy dinghy access.


Yacht Haven Marina Call 68
08:10.253N 98:20.354E. Large marina to tie onto; can also anchor off in good holding, apparently.
Very nice marina, well supervised and organized, good place to leave the boat (but we would not recommend Sea Marine services to care for the boat).



Boat Lagoon Marina Call 67 / 71
07:57.802N 98:23.212E. Very shallow channel, only accessible at high tide; boats sit in mud at low tide. You may request a pilot for entry and exit. Great services offered by the marina, many facilities, good location.


Ko Rang Yai

This island is to the east of the entrance to Boat Lagoon / Royal Phuket Marina and therefore is a convenient stop-over to wait for high tide before entering the channel to these marinas.
We used two anchorages: on the east side at 07:57.374N 98:27.390E and on the west side at 07:57.103N 98:26.801E. The former is particularly protected in SW winds, but is functional and gives no access to the beach; the latter gives fair protection in both seasons if weather is not too strong, and in addition provides access by dinghy to the long beach, restaurant, pearl shop etc. Take the dinghy onto the beach near to the shop area; too far right of this and you will be caught at low to mid tide by extensive rock-reef. Watch for strong tidal current if swimming from the boat.

Ko Naka
There are apparently lovely anchorages on the east but we have never used them (those on the south end have lots of jet-skis in season; the one on the north advertising “Cold Beer” is great!
We rafted up to friends anchored in about 3m at 08:02.651N 98:27.808E. There is extensive drying reef, so keep way off. A small river feeds into the sea; take this line out and use it to guide your dinghy in, but at low tide it is very shallow. Lovely soft beach to BBQ.



Ko Phanak
East side: We recommend 3 explorations on this eastern side of Ko Phanak.
We anchored at 08:11.375N 98:29.743E in 4m sand in good holding. Good protection unless winds are strong from north or east. This anchorage is a good spot from which to observe the day boats and see where they enter 2 of the caves/hongs:
  • The furthest north is a walk-in cave entrance (leave dinghy on small beach to the right (north)) to be done with shoes and torches at mid-to low tide. Follow the tunnel to the most beautiful double hong.
  • To the left of this entrance is an entrance for the dinghy or canoes (use torches); paddle in at mid-tide, ebbing. This takes you to a lovely underwater hong.
Anchor at 08:11.026N 98:29.694E in 5m to explore an obvious cave; leave the dinghy on the sand at the cave entrance; this cave can be done at all states of tide. Use shoes; take torches; take mosquito repellant. The most beautiful part is on the left towards the back where there is a tiered quartz waterfall which can only be seen in its splendor in your flash photographs of it!


West side: We have only been at one of the hongs on this side; anchored at 08:11.540N 98:29.109E in 5m. There is a small beach (with monkeys) south of which is a hong entrance at the top of the bay. Go into the hong at low to mid tide only; it may be very tight for a dinghy at the entrance and exit only, but a paddle-canoe will do. There were independent Thai dinghy operators at the entrance who coerced us into using their services (500ThB for 2pp)… and we enjoyed the facility.
Ko Hong (Phand Nga)
This anchorage gives protection in all winds except from the north. It can be a little rolly in the NE and the tidal current is strong; beware possible dragging.
We anchored at 08:13.604N 98:30.118E in 11m sand.



Very pretty island, anchored under sheer cliffs. At mid- to high tide, take the dinghy south (on this east side) into the beautiful lagoon. Once inside the lagoon, on the SW side of this lagoon is an entrance to a hong that can be accessed by the dinghy at mid tide, but it is quite tight (the lagoon is stunning, the hong not as lovely as those described above).
Ko Daeng Yai
Very pretty anchorage north and west of James Bond Island, in the channel with Ko Raya Ring to the east (beware very shallow areas on this east side). We anchored at 08:16.602N 98:29.010E in 3.7m. Approach is very shallow, to be taken slowly! 


Ko Thalu

Dropped anchor in 8m at 08:17.986N 98:28.613E for a short visit to the lovely tunnel that goes right through the base of the island / mountain. Lovely.

Ko Raya / Ko Thalu Nok
This is on the way to the gypsy village, Pan Yi, and gives easy access to getting the dinghy into all the hongs and through the tunnel here; you cannot miss it, as there will be many tourist canoes in the area, but it is fun to see and do. We anchored in 2m at 08:17.734N 98:30.334E but coming from the deeper channel you can easily stop further out where deeper.

Ko Khai
08:15.239N 98:30.537E in 5.4m. Ko Khai is really beautiful, with interesting overhangs and a balcony to climb onto to see the small cave; tiny pretty beach on the east side.



Ko Roi
This is a really beautiful anchorage but can be a little rolly in the SW. Wave refraction round the sides of the island in seas from the N make for a complex pattern under the boat too, but avoid the temptation to  tuck in too close as there is a shelf of reef! Nonetheless we always felt comfortable and the holding is excellent in thick mud…. This needs to be sprayed off with the deck-wash as the anchor is lifted. Anchored in 8m at 08:11.582N 98:36.611E.


To the south of the smaller (more northerly) beach is the entrance (on foot) to a very large and really lovely hong, exceptionally easy access at all but high tide. The other beach is accessible at mid to high tide.


Ko Ku Du

6.5m at 08:11.849N 98:38.081E; beautiful anchorage, explore around both islands by dinghy; the lagoon on the south is beautiful.


Ko Yao Yai: Ao Labu

Fairly large bay but has extensive shallow areas, so before using the dinghy to go to shore, watch where the local fishing boats go, to get an idea of the channels. We anchored on the north side in 5m at 08:01.613N 98:33.721E, in good holding mud.

Ko Yao Yai: South Bay
Very big bay which gives good protection except to winds from the south. However, even when there is no weather, the water gets a roll from the day boats passing the bottom of the bay at speed, but this is not bad. We anchored in 3m at 07:53.549N 98:35.319E. Access to the village difficult at low tide: watch where longtails go.
Ko Khai Nui
This is not named on the charts; small rock island north of very busy day-time Ko Khai Nok. There are several mooring buoys, quite close together; 07:53.840N 98:30.742E was good overnight. There is a lovely restaurant on shore (expensive, especially drinks), the Chok’D; they are apparently only open at day time, closed Mondays, but when we have been there out of those hours the staff has opened for us nonetheless! (Enterprising/moonlighting!?) Owner: +66817889470


Ao Chalong
Prior to 2012, most yachts anchored to the north of the long pier but we have anchored quite comfortably on the south side (near the edge of the diveboat moorings) at 07:48.959N 98:21.278E in about 6m with good holding. Anchor brings up mud and the deck wash may be needed when lifting. There are now a large number of mooring buoys on the yacht side that we have been most comfortable with, although some are placed quite close together.

Getting the dinghy tied up is now very easy as there was a new marina planned (south of long jetty) but it now simply acts as an extensive dinghy-tie area: very easy access for yachties now where before, getting the dinghy tied up (and you out of it) on the floating pontoon at the end of the pier was a real mission….


Panwa Bali
(This is in Ao Chalong, opposite the Novotel.) We anchored in 6m at 07:48.684N 98:22.977E. Lovely anchorage, great beach restaurants, can hire a bike/car from here.



4                   Krabi Side of Phang Nga Bay
The following are co-ordinates taken from our track when passing through the channel between Ko Yao Yai and Noi. We passed east to west, entering the channel 90 minutes before high tide with a high declared 3.1m above CD. We had up to a knot of current in our favour; current floods from Krabi to Phuket. We saw least depth 2.6m under our keel.
08:04.683N 98:97.003E
08:05.084N 98:36.102E
08:05.374N 98:35.508E
08.05.395N 98:34.463E
08:05.724N 98:33.466E
08:06.540N 98:32.226E
08:07.180N 98:31.806E



Khlong Marui and Khlong Pak Lao

This is easiest approached by going north from Ko KuDu or the north end of Yao Noi. The khlongs are mangrove-sided rivers feeding back from the bay. Very interesting to travel and observe local fishing and tiny homes hiding amongst the mangroves. 
The following waypoints give our track to anchor in Khlong Marui, starting from between the two sisters.
08:21.139N 98:36.914E
08:21.466N 98:36.983E
08:22.262N 98:37.757E
08:22.513N 98:38.090E
08:22.677N 98:38.758E
We anchored in 5m at 08:22.697N 98:39.444E.
The tide races up and down this muddy river; you are not going to swim!

Go by dinghy into Khlong Pak Lao; the waypoint where it feeds into Khlong Marui is 08:23.002N 98:40.105E (facing the mountain, Pak Lao is the entrance on the left of it). Khlong Pak Lao is a really beautiful river; once in it, take the second turn to the right and tie up at the steps which can be seen from Pak Lao itself: beautiful caves with paintings (very faint) and stalactites etc. Return to Pak Lao and turn right into it, then right again (about 40m away) into the next tributary. Follow the river into and through a magnificent tunnel through / under the mountain: wonderful! We went at mid-tide, incoming, but do not think the tide would affect access to this.

Ko Chong Lat
Anchor in 9m at 08:16.570N 98:37.855E; a very lovely area with fish-farm homes along one side of this large bay. Tide races through here. There is a huge rock not on chart (except as a drying area) at 08:16.697N 98:37.771E

Ko Khlui
4.5m at 08:14.385N 98:38.687E. (There are several anchorages given in the pilot books for this island.) Lovely area to explore, with extremely friendly fishermen and any number of opportunities to buy delicious prawns from them.



Koh Ba Tang
3m at 08:12.931N 98:35.471E for a pretty lunch stop.


Ao Muang (Ko Yao Noi)
Mooring buoy at 08:10.398N 98:38.246E. Nice visit to the Paradise Koh Yao Resort on shore to swim and have a meal. They will collect you from the boat; call Nadine Oliver +66818924760 or +6676584450. . If you take the dinghy in, tie it to the very end of the jetty (be guided in by the line of marker poles) but at very low tides you will be high and dry.


Ko Hong (Krabi)
Took a mooring buoy at 08:04.539N 98:40.816E. This looks onto a beautiful beach; take the dinghy north and round the top to see the very large, easy hong. When you exit the hong, a few hundred metres NE are some rocks which provide interesting snorkeling (I fell into a shoal of about 10 of the hugest barracuda seen for a very long time!)


Ko Dam Khwan (Chicken Island)
Beautiful anchorage but many day boats. Walked on the spit (“talay waek”) and saw 2 small black-tips; snorkeled west, north and east sides…. Great lion fish at latter. Several anchorages:


  • Anchored east in 13m at 07:57.384N 98:48.711E, good holding.
  • Anchored NW in 9m at 07:58.137N 98:48.308E (this was beautifully situated under the climbing rock-face)
  • Anchored west in 12m at 07:57.552N 98:48.429E
Ao Nang
Pinched a mooring buoy at 08:01.708N 98:49.081E to visit for the day; be off it before the fishing boat returns!


Rai Lee Bay
Beautiful anchorage; 5m at 08:00.542N 98:49.957E. Use the dinghy to explore the cliffs further east; lovely restaurants; walking street ok but other side filthy.


Ko Phi Phi Don (this is just outside Phang Nga Bay)
Ton Sae Bay: There are many mooring buoys but these appear to be privately owned. We anchored in 14m at 07:43.892N 98:46.203E, good holding.


West side: Yongkasem Bay; anchored in 14m at 07:44.675N 98:45.691E. Pilot guide says this bay is good in all seasons but we found that a strong west wind deflects round the headland and comes at you from the north, hence pushing the boat close to the coral; beware!


NE side of island: Anchored in 15m at 07:46.723N 98:46.018E, good holding. Beware: when the tide goes out it leaves 200m of shallow waters and can leave you perilously exposed to reef!
This looks onto a long beach with several resorts and smaller eateries; dinghy access is via two channels…. Best to watch the day boats and longtails to see these.
Ko Phi Phi Ley, Maya Bay
Go early or late in the day to avoid the day trippers (millions of them) then you can take a mooring buoy and enjoy peace on this beautiful beach (movie “The Beach”).



5                   North of Phuket to Myanmar border


Kao Lak
Long pretty beach, many resorts; good holding in sand in 4m at 08:38.638N 98:14.413E.


Ko Ra
Beautiful quiet peaceful anchorage; we reached it going up the waterways from the southern end. Pretty mangroves, low islands, mainland in distance. 7m at 09:11.534N 98:17.630E, good holding.


Ko Kan Nui
Gorgeous islands, remote and quiet, anchored in 6.5m at 09:29.170N 98:22.201E


Ko Phayam
Buffalo Bay (the NW Bay): in 3m at 09:45.429N 98:24.253E. Dinghy access to the beach starting to get a little difficult as we were late in the season; easiest at the N end of the bay. Variety of resorts and restaurants.


Long Beach (SW Bay): in 5.4m at 09:43.588N 98:23.105E. Beach is very long…. And very wide at low tide, a long way to pull the dinghy! Dinghy landings easiest at N end. Lovely bars, restaurants; hire bikes mid-way up the road to travel the island; pier area interesting.
Ko Chang
Northernmost Thai island on this side; very pretty, very rustic; no bike hire; walk the island in 2 hours; a few eateries; small temple. Anchored in 5m at 09:50.190N 98:26.190E.



6                   The Surin Islands
Beautiful islands with a few pretty beaches (tiny at high tide) and stunning steep forested faces. Good snorkeling, diving; National Parks’ office and restaurant on shore. We were charged ThB400pp and ThB 100 per day for the boat. Well provided with mooring buoys; we had no need to anchor.


Ko Surin Nua Big Bay on south-east side of main island, eastern end of main bay 09:25.281N 97:53.896E; snorkeling interesting near the buoy and around the point.
Ko Surin Nua North West Bay 09:26.356N 97:51.226E; nice protected bay, can walk across to Parks area; not great snorkeling.


West end of channel between Ko Surin Nua and Ko Surin Tai 09:25.705N 97:51.400E; take dinghy through channel (not sure about low tide).
Ko Surin Tai SE side 09:22.782N 97:52.726E; swim to good snorkeling. Diving lovely off the rocks on the SW tip of the island and also on the east end of Koh Torinla, the small island west of these moorings.


Richelieu Rocks; mooring buoy at 09:21.775N 98:01.427E. Take dinghy to the mooring buoy at the pinnacle rocks and drop down the mooring line. Magnificent dive around 5 pinnacle rocks but beware of very strong currents here.



7                   The Similan Islands
Wonderful islands to visit in the NE monsoon season. When we were there, Similans 1, 2 and 3 were closed to protect the coral reefs. The National Parks charged 200ThB per person and issues a ticket that shows validity until the following Friday. Most of the islands have mooring buoys; they are generally reliable but should be checked by snorkeling; we found some that were very shallow.


Good scuba dive along the west coast of Similan 6. Access is by yacht and needs to hold station for duration of  dive. There is a mooring buoy at the southern edge of the  area but too far to swim.
Ko Similan 8
Mooring buoy at 08:40.016N 97:38.745E, 10m.


Ko Similan 5
Mooring buoy at 08:34.150N 97:38.691E, 8m.
Good scuba dive off the dinghy or from the moored yacht around the point to the east.



Ko Similan 4
Mooring buoy at 08:34.444N 97:38.021E, 7m.



8                   Phuket to Langkawi: North to South
Ko Lanta


  • Hat Kan Tiang
    We anchored in 6.2m at 07:29.685N 99:04.281E; easy access to the shore…. There was a jetty belonging to a resort and when we tried to use it we were chased off. Super beach to walk; drinks at the Why Not? Bar were fun.
  • Had Klang Dao (Ao Phra-Ae)
    Mooring buoy at 07:35.972N 99:01.941E.


Ko Ngai (Hai)
Anchored in 9m at 07:24.781N 99:12.851E, good holding.
Several resorts on the long beach, possibility to get a massage (resort prices).



Ko Muk
Anchored in 5m at 07:21.587N 99:18.494E, good holding. Lovely bay, good to explore on foot or dinghy. Many longtail boats. Also anchored in 3m at 07:21.547N 99:18.521E
Ko Muk West has “Emerald Cave” (Morakot), which is famous; one can anchor or take the mooring buoy at the entrance (07:22.136N 99:16.969E) and explore in dinghy or swim in (an easy 80m swim; use torch).



Ko Rok Nok
We have been here several times as this is a beautiful and convenient stop-over. Picnic supper on the beach!
Mooring buoy: 07:12.923N 99:03.978E; easy to snorkel from here but we believe the mooring buoy closest to the northern side of the bay has the best snorkeling.
Anchored in 11m at 07:12.750N 99:04.075E, good holding; beware of bommies when you put your anchor down…. Snorkel the anchor to check.
Do not take the mooring buoy close to the southern island west of the channel: there are very shallow areas here.



The National Parks charges 200ThB per person and issues a ticket that shows validity until the following Friday. However we were only charged once, in all our stops here…. If you arrive after they have finished work for the day you will not be approached for payment!


Ko Phetra
Anchored in 10m at 07:02.024N 99:28.268E. This island has a bad reputation for rolly waters, on both sides, but it was not too bad.


Ko Bulon Le
Anchored in 9m at 06:49.748N 99:32.727E, good holding.
There is a nice village on land and many fishing boats anchor off here.



Ko Bulan
Anchored initially in 5m at 06:49.058N 99:41.103E; this is a lovely bay but this day had a roll coming in from the south so we moved to Ko Bulan north (below). Another day anchored in 3m at 06:48.973N 99:41.044E


Ko Bulan North / Ko Khao Yai
Anchored at 06:50.184N 99:41.036E. This is a very pretty anchorage, looking onto two islands, and it appears seldom used by yachties so you are alone.


Ko Tarutao
  • Ko Laen: Anchored in 12m at 06:42.740N 99:40.254E, good holding. Looks onto a pretty beach but litter at high tide mark; difficult to access beach in dinghy due to reef. Fish eagles.
  • Anchored at 06:42.570N 99:39.947E in 11m, between Ko Laen island and Tarutao.
  • Anchored in 17m at 06:37.481N 99:40.910E, good holding but sticky mud needs washing off. This is a really beautiful anchorage near natural forests and tiny beaches. There are nice walks on surfaced roads; take dinghy to the beach or tie to jetty/pier.
  • Anchored in NE season at 06:41.853N 99:38.400E in 7m off long beach with mangroves.
  • South Bay, well protected most weather, probably. Anchored in 5m at 06:31.215N 99:41.244E.


Butangs
  • Ko Rawi
    Mooring buoy at 06:32.460N 99:09.729E in 12m. This is a beautiful area, lovely snorkeling, beautiful clear water
·         Ko Lipe
SW monsoon season: Anchored in 8m at 06:29.945N 98:18.667E, good holding in a pretty anchorage. Reasonable snorkeling near the rocks. On land, can eat at the Mountain resort. Also walk through village to the other side: there are several dingy places in this low season but also a really beautiful resort with pool etc.
NE monsoon season: Take a mooring buoy (do not get the ones too close to the square floating platform as the ferries tie on here to offload many passengers) or anchor off. We took the dinghy onto the beach on the north side of the northernmost buoyed swimming area. Lots of lovely small restaurants on the beach, ‘walking street’ across the island, is very worth a visit.
  • Ko Ta Lang
    This is an amazing day stop to scuba dive straight off the boat.
    Take the mooring buoy at 06:29.064N 99:20.106E. The buoy is in good condition and tied onto a pinnacle at about 7m down. The dive round the pinnacle goes down to 15m and is magnificent.

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Seychelles


SEYCHELLES SAILING / CRUISING NOTES
Ketoro December 2009 – February 2010

 CONTACT DETAILS
VHF Channel 16 and 69 to 71 (Coast Guard)

Emergency Numbers
UKMTO (UK Maritime Trade Organisation) (RN) Dubai ukmto@eim.ae +971 50 552 3215
Fax +971 4 306 5710 Telex (51) 210473 (24 hour watch)


US flagged vessels MARLO (MaritimeLiaison Office) (USN) Bahrain marlo.bahrain@me.navy.mil
+973 3940 1395 (24 hour watch)
Seychelles Coast Guard Joint Rescue Coordination Centre 00248224411/224616/610293
Sat phone 8816315119185; fax 00248323288; mail mrcc.seycoast@email.sc

Coast Guard and Seychelles Radio monitor (HF) 2182 / 7696

 PROCEDURES  AND  PLACES

Arrival and clearing in
Anchor off lighthouse at about 04:37.31S 55:28.52E (Q flag)
Immigration, customs, police, coast guard, port authority and health will all come to the boat. Very friendly and helpful. Later go to Port control to finalise and get all permits from here. Process not onerous (and our permits were never checked!).

 
MAHE ISLAND
Victoria               

Poor holding in the harbour at Yacht Club. Mooring buoys owned privately but we befriended Antoine (Island Star) who let us use one of his.
Yacht Club nice; reasonable food at reasonable prices; beers cheapest on the islands.

Friday evenings: food market (good Creole food and cheap)and stalls with music opposite yacht club at Marine Charter Ass… great atmosphere.
Restaurants: all expensive; Pirates Arms disappointing; Le Rendez Vous horribly expensive; News Café pleasant; Market restaurant fine; Marie Antoinette good Creole food, (have 11 huge tortoises with broken shells that were rescued when small, and love a scratch now).

Local take-aways good and cheap.
Internet café near Pirates Arms but you can get Kokozone card at Yacht Club to use there.

Provisioning: you have to go to many shops to get all your requirements; Krishnamart good;
Continental stores ok; Docklands ok; Citimart expensive. The best general stores are down SW of Mahe.

Freshcuts supplies excellent meat, cheese, chicken but latter can also be bought from Docklands supermarket. Local market great to visit, excellent fish, veg variable but much is imported and horribly expensive or not available.
Marine services etc: all info provided to you in a useful document on clearing in. Philip Albert at Adesho Marine (Latanier Road, near Port Control) very helpful.

Transport round the island: taxis (expensive, can maybe be talked down but unlikely for a tourist); buses plentiful and reliable (only 7Scr to go anywhere). Easy to hitch a ride with the locals.
Hire a car to tour the island…. Very good day’s activity, particularly as you get to find all the better supermarkets in the South.

Eden Island and Wharf Marina
Expensive to berth (Wharf Marina less so and will give long-stay discount), expensive to eat, but worth a look.

Baie Beau Vallon (Bay)
Pretty, very touristy, limited anchorage between 2 sets of marker buoys, bad in NW winds.

Port Launay
Good anchoring in 8m sand; 04:39.13S; 55:23.91E
Snorkelling great near the rocks, sea-ward of anchorage place.

Lazare Bay
Anchoring good at Anse Gaulettes 04:45.73S 55:28.98E; sand, 8m.
Snorkelling great near the rocks, sea-ward of anchorage place.

Anse Royale
Nice pretty bay, snorkel from the boat; 04:44.65S; 55:31.18E in 13m sand.

 
PRASLIN ISLAND
Baie St Anne

Easy moorings; plentiful, but apparently are intended for charter boats and only allowed to private boats for some hours’ shopping. We did stay overnight with no problem however.
The area is worth one visit; go to OrganiBar for a Creole meal; some supermarkets further along the road. Take dinghy round the reclaimed island to orientate yourself.

 Anse Volbert / Cote d’Or
Big bay, beautiful from the sea, private island Chauve Souris. Whole bay offers expensive upmarket restaurants; food at Le Village Pecheur very good; all expensive.

Small shops one road back, and road-side fruit sellers.
Anchorage has good sand holding but careful of reef; snorkelling from boat near the 4 rocks is good at 04:18.54S 55:44.63E.

We also anchored at  but found that this was in Marine Reserve so they come to you for fees.

St Pierre
Famous from the Sey guides; beautiful tiny island, wonderful snorkelling.
   
Curieuse Island: Laria Bay

Wonderfully protected bay, calm in all but SE winds, good snorkelling. 3 mooring buoys, also plenty of good anchoring (sand, 8m)
Marine Reserve fees (2009) 250 rupees ($1 = 11 Scr) for boat overnight then 200Scr per person going on land.

Anse Lazio
Beautiful, famous beach; we anchored off for lunch 04:17.56S 55:41.93E
Good swimming from beach. Long dinghy ride from Curieuse!

 
LA DIGUE ISLAND
Very small shallow harbour; they somehow squeeze in many more boats than it can really take (about 12); drop anchor then stern in and tie to tree. Bit of a tense process if crowded!

Pretty little centre and beautiful island for cycling; hire bikes for 200Scr per day. Going north, over the top then down the E side you will come to a wonderful roadside stall selling great fresh-fruit smoothies: recommended. Cycle further and look for giant tortoises on the road.
Go up to the view point… but leave your bike at the bottom to collect later!

Shopping: Gregoire’s is good.

PETITE SOEUR ISLAND
Really beautiful beach SW side; anchored in 13m sand 04:17.41S 55:51.23E; nice snorkelling.
Many day-trippers seen at Grande Soeur; we did not venture there… payment required.

 
FELICITE ISLAND
Cocos Island (day trippers favourite) is at the tip of Felicite; we anchored off at 04:19.224S 55:51.888E and took dinghy across to Cocos to snorkel (Parks people will charge you if you are there at an unfortunate time! Wear shoes to walk… we saw stonefish).

Anchorage SW side of Felicite 04:20.17S 55:52.48E; we anchored overnight but it was not great holding.

Departure and clearing out
Give passport to immigration 2 days before, sort out payment with Port Authorities and collect ship’s papers. On departure day call Port Control an hour before to inform them what time you leaving, then sail to alongside Coast Guard jetty; they finalise everything on the boat.

Chagos


CHAGOS SAILING / CRUISING NOTES

Ketoro March 2010


Peros Banhos Atoll

Arriving from the Seychelles, we entered in the western pass. As a first-time visitor and relatively novice sailor, it is somewhat disconcerting when you see the long line of breaking water indicating the extensive reef but the Raymarine chart-plotter / Navionics chart is accurate and we got through easily.

We subsequently used the northern pass, using waypoints 05:15.185S 71:48.000E (inside) and 05:14.697S 71:48.477E. The depth drops rapidly when entering the atoll, from 150m to 18m over only a few metres, but we saw no shallower than 11m. Nonetheless, we still had to skirt a few bommies so good light is required.
There is an uncharted (Navionics) shallow area at 05:22.308S 71:46.254E, easily visible in good light; it is not particularly shallow however.

Peros Banhos has only three permitted anchorage areas: Ile Diamant in the north, Ile du Coin / Ile Anglaise in the SW and Ile Fouquet in the south. Particularly in the case of the latter two, the authorised anchorage areas are, in fact, not the safest areas; the permitted locations put you into sand areas that have several bommies to watch out for, and put beautiful sand patches, clear of all coral, into the disallowed area! We were, however, generally able to find good anchorage in the allocated areas (there is good holding sand).

Ile du Coin / Ile Anglaise

This anchorage gives good protection in all winds except from the north and east.
We anchored at 05:26.516S 71:45.600E in 25m sand and subsequently 05:26.319S 71:45.488E in 16m sand. Another anchorage, closer to the pier and solidly in the BIOT recommended anchorage area, was abandoned as it put us uncomfortably close to several bommies and we heard our chain scraping: time to move.

This anchorage is a good spot from which to explore the islands of Coin, Anglaise, Gabrielle and Monpatre (twin islands) and Poule. Snorkelling was good off all of them particularly Poule and Coin (east of the pier).

On land: Coin has the fascinating plantation structures (at the pier entrance and also find the cemetery half-way down the island) and has a good well near the main old house. It has a few citrus trees (not export quality fruit but welcome….!) and some bilimbi trees (very tart fruit but great; also keeps mosquitoes at bay). Walking around the other islands at low tide is great, particularly Gabrielle/Monpatre.

Ile Fouquet

This anchorage gives good protection in all winds except from the north and west.
We anchored at 05:27.591S 71:48.747E in 14m sand (there is also shallower anchorage).

Very pretty island, quick and easy to walk around at low tide. Nice snorkelling at the Aquarium (inside the reef) and drifting the outer reef. Look out for manta rays and dolphins. Excellent fishing both inside and outside at the pass.

Ile Diamant

This anchorage gives good protection in all winds except from the south and east.
We anchored at 05:15.301S 71:46.369E in 8m excellent sand. The sand patch is fairly small – good for two or three yachts.

This is a lovely anchorage as a base to explore the islands of Diamant, Mapou (Grand and Petit) and Ile Pierre; the latter is a fascinating island to walk on the outer-atoll side (seemed to have different shells and corals washed up) while you may find the wells (not really usable without effort), citrus and bilimbi trees on Diamant. The snorkelling was marvellous around the FAD (around the middle of the island) and at the SW tip of the island; it is also good elsewhere!

Salomon Atoll

Waypoints for entry to Salomon Atoll
The waypoints below were reported by others, and found useful and accurate by us. There are fewer shallow areas down the centre of the atoll (more when closer to Ile Anglaise) and good light is required to make way.
WP1                                       05:17.857S           72:14.384E          
WP2       (Inside pass)             05:18.489S           72:14.508E          
WP3                                       05:18.855S           72:14.772E          
WP4                                       05:20.314S           72:14.278E

Ile Boddam

At Boddam there are several bommie moorings, but there are also apparently reasonable reported anchoring spots. In 2013 we were on a mooring at 05:21.422S 72:12.674E; we dove on the mooring and were happy with its condition; we felt safe although it was close to a drying reef (as are many of the moorings.)

Boddam is a good base from which to explore the tiny islands of Ile Poule and Ile du Sel; there is wonderful snorkeling around bommies and walls near these islands.
Walks on Boddam (to the plantation buildings and cemetery) and around it (low tide) are good.

Ile Takamaka / Ile Fouquet

The sand spit between the two islands is most beautiful but gets eroded by very strong currents between the islands; as a consequence the holding is not good and yachts are at risk. This anchorage in general gives good protection in all winds except from the north and west.

We anchored in 15m at 05:20.197S 72:15.883E and found the holding good. This is a lovely anchorage as a base to explore the two islands and the smaller islets (Sepulture and Jacobin) along the sand spit to the south-west of Fouquet, and to access the excellent snorkeling near these.

Chagos General Snorkeling Note:

We always pulled our dinghy while snorkelling in case the drift was too strong… and in case we felt uncomfortable with a shark! Reef sharks, mostly black-tip, some white-tip, some grey, are prolific but each seems to have its own reefs/areas that it prowls constantly. And every area has at least one shark. So wherever and whenever you go to explore the reef, you will encounter sharks (we saw sharks on almost every snorkel). Reef sharks are not dangerous to humans (apparently) but they are very curious and circle a few times as they check you out. We believed the reef sharks at Boddam to be more curious than elsewhere, probably as they are so accustomed to people, being fed by yachties when cleaning their fish.

Madagascar


MADAGASCAR SAILING / CRUISING NOTES

Ketoro November 2009

(These notes only cover sailing in and around the Nosy Be area, NW Madagascar.)

Note that the chartplotter info is not always accurate; check headlands against radar and use the radar overlay/offset facility on the chart to correct or assess the discrepancies.

Money: Franc Malagasy (fmg) and Ariary (1 ariary = 5 fmg) and where US$1 = 1800Ar


Clearing in/out procedures

Anchor in Hell-Ville harbour: not good holding. Many boat-boys / wharf rats will try to get your work looking after the dinghy and helping with loading and also with boat cleaning: we recommend John (Rasta woolen cap on head) and possibly Romeo.

Go to Police (in a container office at harbour), customs (two separate offices), Port Authority, tourist office (cruising permit), immigration, etc. but you will need the help of one of the guys (Romeo appears to know his way around).

Frank +261 3205 30796 is a local accountant with offices close to the harbor and a useful contact who could advise on clearing in procedures.

Taxis cost 1,000Ariary per person per trip or 10,000Ar/hour.

Hell-Ville

This is the busy capital of Nosy Be; walk from the harbour into town past historic buildings and craft markets.

Shopping:

Hell-Ville market really excellent, good quality fruit and veg, reasonable prices (make sure you understand the currency they are quoting you in… there is an old and a new…. Take a notepad and get them to write everything down; ask them to quote prices in Ariary.) Seafood also good.

Shampion Supermarket expensive but has good range of cheeses, meats, imported goods; most yachties go to the supermarket of a Chinese man (shop called Akkam Olivier sp??) for good service and supplies.

Taxis have an excellent set-up: 40,000Ar for 4 hours and they are at your disposal to take you to any number of places, drop off your list, return later to collect etc. Pick up a taxi at the harbour or… better… anchor off Sakatia Towers; John (see details under Sakatia Island) will get his hotel boat to collect you at your boat and take you to Chanty Beach on Nosy Be where you will meet the taxi he organizes; do your shopping, return and John’s guy will collect you and your bags and drop you all off at your boat. Another 10,000Ar for that service in addition to the taxi fare.

Internet Café at Galleries in town.

Eating out (and super slow Wi-Fi): Ex pats all go to Nandiepo Bar; also lovely (but quieter) at Hotel del Mare.

Marine services: Yo Yo “the Frenchman” (near the Hell-Ville harbour) can help with most mechanical things!

General sailing comment for November in Nosy Be: in the mornings the light off-shore East wind predominated; in the afternoons the stronger west wind comes in; anchorages should be chosen with this in mind.

Sakatia Island

Anchorage in channel between Sakatia and Nosy Be islands, can be strong tidal currents. 13:18.055S 48:10.71E. Anchor off Sakatia Towers: run by John Sheppard (+261 3202 01986) very friendly to yachts (ex-cruiser / racer); sundowners at the lodge at 5pm daily. Snorkelling fair.  John is a great source of all local knowledge, sourcing stuff and getting things done.

Use dinghy to explore beaches on E side of Sakatia and around to a long beach on the north. Diving can be organized through lodges… apparently very good.

Also anchor off Sakatia Lodge in 8m sand 13:18.915E 48:09.659E. Run by Jose, also friendly; more up-market place really beautiful and good snorkelling.  Specialises in scuba diving.

Tani Kely Island

Beautiful small island (marine reserve), wonderful snorkelling. Anchor E of island 100m off beach in 10-15m over sand to 5m over sand or on sand spit S of island for anchorage in 7m 13:29.100S 48:14.360E; dive or snorkel from the boat. Go onshore and walk to the lighthouse etc.

Russian (Helondranon) Bay

Approaching from east, stay 0.5nm offshore until can head due S through middle of entrance. Beautiful huge bay, escape from cyclones, several anchorages. Anchorage in eastern bay: 13:32.895S 48:02.440S; anchorage behind sand spit off village on west side near entrance: 13:32.106S 47:59.924E. Walk in village, fresh water from river (mosquitoes), braai on beautiful beach, pretty snorkelling towards the spit of sand at entrance to bay.

Nose Komba

Very touristy island but worth seeing; lovely village Ampangorinana, good water supply from taps on beach; decent restaurant at each end of the beach; craft market with lovely table cloths etc; go early morning into Lemur reserve behind the village.

Anchor at 13:26.569S 48:21.140E in 10m sand. Approach: when Nosy Verona (with old lighthouse) bears 020.

Nosy Be: Lokobe Reserve

This anchorage is at the back of the Lokobe Reserve / mountain, at a small river mouth; very pretty walk along the beach and up the river into the reserve. Anchor at 13:24.854S 48:20.277E – between the little river mouth and the large house on the beach (rarely occupied).

Nose Iranja

Stunning island in 2 halves: one with expensive hotel (not welcoming to yachts but will allow drink at bar) one at other end of a sand spit (covered at high tide) with village and bush; great for walking (mangroves other side). Anchorage discouraged in front of lodge except short-term; anchorage is south side of spit (unsure of following for anchorage: 13:37.30S 47:50.60E and 13:44.50S 47:33.00E). Other documents advise the following: ‘anchor S or W of island in 4-6m over sand; anchor E of small island in sand patches 3m depth.’ Approach from S but care with occasional coral heads. Iranja means turtle and this island is turtle sanctuary.

Barahamamay River and bay

Navigable for 2M inland; good sheltered anchorage. Bay recognised as gap in coastline (charts are not accurate – check actual position of headlands with radar before following chartplotter); keep gap bearing 110 and once in, favour N side of river for deeper water. Anchor past villages in 8m over sand and mud. 13:42.83S 47:54.17E Beautiful river; escape from cyclones; lovely village to stroll; buy wild honey in bottles (check that it has not been watered down); lovely crab restaurant… inform the owners the day before or the morning you coming.

Nose Tsara Bajina

Beautiful private island with upmarket lodge, but amenable to yachts; mooring buoy or anchor nearby over 10m sand (report to hotel reception if using the buoy).  Bar and restaurant available but only during day. Beautiful snorkeling from boat or take dinghy to rocks on SE side of island (the closer of the two outcrops of rocks here) and dive the ones closer in…. Wonderful!

Iles Mitsios: Maribe Bay

Bay very protected from most winds; used as an overnight base to go out for daysails and / or go fishing. Anchored in 6m sand 12:54.620S 48:34.689E


North of Madagascar: safe anchorage on passage up or down: Nosy Hara

12:14.597S 49:00.301E