MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE and BRUNEI

MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE and BRUNEI CRUISING NOTES

Ketoro 2010 – 2012

Ketoro is a 40’ Admiral catamaran with a 1.2m draft. The anchoring depths given are all under the keel.

These notes cover our anchorages in the following grouped areas: Langkawi, Penang and islands off W Peninsular Malaysia; W Peninsular Malaysia mainland; S and E Peninsular Malaysia; the islands off eastern Peninsular Malaysia; East Malaysia (Borneo Island) from west (Sarawak) to east (Sabah).
We visited Singapore on the way, and also did a visa run to Brunei on the way up the Borneo coast; these notes are covered at the end.

1 Langkawi to Penang

Langkawi Island

Duty free port especially for fuel, wine, beer and chocolate.

At Kuah town (main town and ferry terminal and entry / exit facilities) Langkawi Yacht Club: marine@langkawiyachtclub.com +60 4966 4078

Matsarat: town near airport on south west side with easy access to Rebak and Telaga marinas; great store PL Sun Huat. Wine room at the back.

Langkawi Island: Telaga Harbour Marina

 azharjg@telagaharbour.com . Check in /out facilities at marina. Fuel at Petronas quay; 2012 Rm2.80/l. Veggie man comes every Friday to marina. Good car and scooter hire from Mr Din who will deliver to Immigration building at marina.
Marina is at 06:22.023N 99:41.058E; you can anchor in the ‘lagoon’ behind the two manmade islands (about 3m, rolly in S winds, some areas of poor holding.) We were in 3.2m at 06:21.81N 99:40.77E.

Pulau Rebak besar (Rebak Island)

Mazrizal Othman Marina manager,  marina@rebakmarina.com. Rebak Island Resort,  +60 4966 5566, +60 19 477 0695, mazrizal.othman@tajhotels.com, rmmarina.malaysia@tajhotels.com .
Marina 06:17.777N 99:41.892E
One small chandlery and one small provisioning shop on Rebak island. No fuel available but LPG gas is. Veggie man comes to Port Langasouka (hotel shuttle boat stop) every Friday. Travel between Rebak and Langkawi islands is by hotel shuttle boat every 45 mins. Car and scooter hire from ??? who will deliver to Port Langasouka shuttle dock.

Pulau Dayan Bunting

Anchored in 3m at 06:10.666N 99:48.108E and 11m at 06:11.434N 99:47.258E.

“Christmas Beach” 06:10.666N 99:48.108E in 3m.

Pulau Singa Besar

06:12.316N 99:44.675E in 4m

“Fjord” anchorage

This is a beautiful anchorage between steep islands, but the tide can be strong. We dropped in 12m at 06:11.220N 99:47.259E.

Penang

Tanjung City Marina, Georgetown: 05:24.858N 100:20.633E; depth 1.5m; bad mooring, surges from ferries, but wonderful central place from which to walk and explore Georgetown. We have been informed (2013) that this marina has closed down.

New marina at Straits Quay (north east corner of island) is evidently very good.

2 West Peninsular Malaysia (mainland)

Malacca Straits

Travelling south: we preferred to go beyond the 30m contour, and sailed just in-shore of the north-bound shipping channel, hence facing the near-side shipping. (The shipping is very good about staying in their channel, but seeing them on AIS is comforting as the clearance between you and the oncoming ships is tight if you want to ensure a default port-to-port passing with oncoming small craft in the Inshore zone). There were many other vessels in the In-Shore zone including many tugs towing barges. Few tugs had AIS (but they all did show correct nav. lights), and most of the other in-shore vessels had no AIS. At night we became aware of wooden vessels, with no radar print and no navigation lights, crossing the channel close to us: smuggling appears to exist.

Particularly when northbound (and you cannot get too close to the protection of the shipping lane because of southbound small craft) it is best to show as much light as you can to alert the many small fishing boats to your presence – they tend to sit in darkness until they become aware of an approaching vessel and only then switch on!

It is quite feasible to day-sail the Straits as many overnight anchorages are available. However we had a schedule and to make best use of the very significant tidal currents, we elected to run mainly with the tides with the only proviso being to round Singapore in daylight.

Pulau Pangkor

Our only experience of this island was a stop to go up the mast and do repairs. We anchored in 13.8m at 04:12.575N 100:32.965E

Port Dickson

Admiral Cove Marina; berthed at 02:28.581N 101:50.713E
This is a good place from which to visit the city of Melaka for a few days. Fuel dock available.

3 South and East Peninsular Malaysia (mainland)

Puteri Harbour Marina

Keep to the west (Malaysia) side of Johor Straits: Singapore patrol boats were evident and watchful.

Marina is good wrt berths, shore heads, laundry facilities, restaurant, fuel is available.

Berthed at 01:25.091N 103:39.498E in 5m.

Teluk Punggai

We anchored in 5.7m at 02:16.636N 104:07.042E

Kuala Rompin

Anchored in 2.8m at 02:48.49N 103:30.51E

Anchored 03:38.080N 103:35.707E in 18m, off the coastline in good holding sand; this is simply an open beach roadstead.

Kuala Terengganu: Ri-Yaz Heritage Marina

Enter the river between the two rock breakwaters; head west to marina. Berthed in marina at 05:20.367N 103:07.857E; depth 5.4m.

It is possible to go upstream to raft to the fuel barge but we took the dinghy upstream to collect in jerry cans once, and another time a barge came to deliver to boats (if there are enough takers to make it worth their while). Best to filter the fuel before going into tanks.

The city (market, shops, pharmacy, banks; small but nice Chinatown with people very friendly and helpful) is the other side of the river, approached by dinghy; tie up at the dock. An evening out ended up with 2 of 4 dinghies having petrol siphoned out of their fuel tanks.

This is a very conservative Muslim city and foreigners who do not dress appropriately are made to feel very unwelcome.

4 East Peninsular Malaysia Islands

Pulau Tinggi

Beautiful island, good holding anchorage at 02:16.636N 104:07.042E in 5.7m. Watch out for sandflies.

Pulau Babi Besar

Anchored in 4.5m at 02:28.793N 103:57.303E

Tioman Island

• Teluk Tekek  village. Anchored in 14m (which became 3.7m!) at 02:49.343N 104:09.550E; this was where most catamarans anchored (and a great place to view the small DASH aircraft using the tiny runway!), with many monohulls anchoring the other side (SW) of the marina entrance. Wonderful island for good walks, food, base for diving, visits to places of interest. Small marina. Tioman Island is duty free and a source of cheap beer.
• Small island SW of Teluk Tekek, mooring buoy in 6m at 02:48.63N 104:08.17E; nice snorkeling albeit busy with day boats.
• Mooring buoy in 7.5m at Kampung Mukut, east jetty, south of Tioman island; 02:43.13N 104:11.75E. Lovely walk to a waterfall used in the old movie “South Pacific”.

Pulau Tulai

02:54.776N 104:06.082E, anchored in 15.5m.

Pulau Sepoi

Mooring buoy in 17m at 02:53.41N 104:03.97E; well placed to dive nearby.

Tiger Rocks

Mooring buoy for diving in 19.2m at 02:53.494N 104:03.593E. Great diving.

Pulau Sribuat

02:41.867N 103:53.900E in 10.7m

Pulau Redang

Anchored north side in 6m at 05:47.23N 103:01.05E and at Pu Redang South / Pu Penang we took a mooring buoy in 6.5m at 05:44.896N 103:00.198E. Good snorkeling and diving.

Pulau Lima

Moored on a dive buoy in 12m at 05:46.458N 103:03.505E

Perhentian Islands Good snorkeling and diving.

Anchored South in 14m at 05:53.36N 102:44.94E, then in channel 3.7m at 05:53.68N 102:44.12E.

Took a mooring buoy at lighthouse (Seabelle Mount?) in 10.3m at 05:54.633N 102:42.585E.

Anchored in 9.5m at Perhentian Besar (NW) at 05:54.715N 102:44.956E.

Mooring Buoy at Tokong Laut (Temple Rock) 05:57.725N 102:39.413E

5 East Malaysia (Borneo Island): Sarawak

Crossing the South China Sea from west to east Malaysia (Borneo Island): the main Singapore – Taiwan – Japan shipping lanes must be crossed; keep well clear of all of the Indonesian island territories, and be on the lookout for oil production platforms.

Pulau Satang Besar

We anchored in 7.6m at 01:46.709N 110:10.014E off this beautiful National Park island.

Santubong River

Approach waypoints to Santubong: 01°46.93N 110°16.49E, then 01°42.83N 110°17.81E, and then 01°42.83N 110°19.00E. It is best to travel in the river at / near HW. Anchor along the north bank of the river. There is a dinghy jetty but that is all.

We anchored at the base of beautiful Santubong mountain in 11.7m at 01:42.9N 110:19.95E. Further north are fishing boats and houses; here there are unmarked wrecks and abandoned equipment and some yachts had to re-lay their anchor a few times before it would hold.
Ship and barge traffic is disciplined and not troublesome.

Crocodiles ARE troublesome, so no boat or prop cleaning or diving on the anchor here!
Boat can be left here for the day to visit Kuching; this town is wonderful for a few days visits. Also see the Cultural Village near the anchorage. If there is need to leave the boat overnight, it is probably best done at Kuching Marina.

Kuching Marina

Berthed in 4.2m at 01:33.525N 110:24.273E.
There are strong tides in the river, and great piles of logs and debris are brought down; however, they tend to get trapped by the dock structures and yachts inside are protected.

Some yachts went up Sungai Rajang to Sibu but we were very nervous of log debris and left Ketoro at the marina to go away for a few days to Sibu and Kapit; the boat was safe. Fuel is available by jerry cans and local taxi / entrepreneurs.

Pulau Lakei

01:44.942N 110:30.000E in 5.4m. Enjoyable walks on the island.

Miri Marina

Entrance is at 04:22.90N 113:58.15E; sandbar across the entrance makes it shallow and care must be taken. We had 2.8m depth; 04:23.112N 113:58.346E.

Miri Marina is a very easy place for fuel, gas, taxis, laundry and to buy pork: all of these are dealt with by entrepreneurial locals who come to the boat to help you! Get contact details from Capt Fin the marina manager at +60 (85) 423 033. (VHF Ch 69)

Miri is a perfect base to fly to Mulu National Park: the caves are outstanding and well worth a few days.

6 East Malaysia (Borneo Island): Sabah

Pulau Tiga

Mooring buoy at 05:43.146N 115:38.842E in 6.3m.

Kota Kinabalu: Sutera Harbour Marina

Very fancy marina, and room to anchor off if it is full or if you do not have holding tanks or third party insurance (both required for marina). Fuel dock available.

We were on a med mooring in 6m depth at 05:58.007N 116:03.318E.

Two hotels and a marina club and excellent swim pools.  Cheap shuttle to town runs frequently from the hotels. Excellent base to see KK, the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehab Centre, and to travel to Kinabalu Park.

Teluk Ambong

Anchored in 4.4m at 06:48.9N 116:33.1E; in sand/mud off the beach, and another time in 9m at 06:18.568N 116:18.118E.

Northern tip of Borneo: 07:02.655N 116:44.662E

Pulau Malawali

Anchored in 5m at 07:03.143N 117:16.250E. This island is supposed to have many turtles.

Off-shore anchorage

Good sand, 6.5m at 07:00.991N 116:46.660E

Pulau Tigabu

Anchored in 14.8m at 06:52.768N 117:28.496E

Pulau Langkayan

The resort has placed at least three mooring balls here, in good condition (two of them brand new) in 2011. We were at 06:30.260N 117:54.894E in a depth of 20m.

The island is a turtle conservation area and well worth a visit, and paying the Rm 25 conservation fee. At the time we were there (September) they were releasing baby turtles daily, and called us (on request) on VHF 16 when a female came ashore to lay eggs.

Pulau Silingaan

18m at 06:10.302N 118:03.378E

Sandakan

The recommended anchorage is off the Royal Sandakan Yacht Club (RSYC). We anchored once in 15m at 05:50.303N 118:07.452E and a subsequent time in 11m at 05:50.450N 118:07.592E.

This is a very muddy river (deckwash required for anchor lifting) and very busy; three of us had our boats burgled while asleep on anchor, despite being directly off the Police Station. Yacht club clubhouse bar and restaurant works very well as local and expat centre. Fuel available by jerry cans and own dinghy. Sandakan is home to the only Yanmar agent in Borneo (next stop Singapore).

Kinabatangan River

Catamarans use the northern entrance route and monohulls entered via the southern entrance, due to the sand banks in the northern entrance.

These are some of our anchoring positions and waypoints down this lovely (albeit muddy) river; the jungle extends to less than 100m on each side but we still saw good birdlife, macaques and proboscis monkeys, elephants and, at the final anchorage, orang utans.

Waypoints from our track and anchorages on the way down:

Northern entrance: 05:52.322N 118:17.649E; 05:51.471N 118:18.247E; 05:50.082N 118:19.123E; 05:48.484N 118:20.232E; 05:47.616N 118:20.527E

Turn right at 05:41.876N 118:23.068E into the main river tributary.

Our anchorages were: Kampong Abei (Johnsonville!): anchored in 5m at 05:41.013N 118:23.231E; also in 3m at 05:36.781N 118:20.870E and lastly we anchored in 6.5m at 05:30.504N 118:17.626E at Kampung Sukau. Beware the powerlines up ahead at 05:30.461N 118:17.197E which are too low to let most boats through.
Whilst here we breakfasted at the Barefoot Lodge and went on a longtail night trip up a tributary with Ahmad Arsih as well as doing our own dinghy exploration: wonderful.

Waypoints from our track and anchorages on the way out:

We anchored in 5m at 05:40.228N 118:23.265E off a tributary with firefly trees; good evening dinghy trip. Turn right at 05:41.876N 118:23.068E to head for the Dewhurst Bay exit. Waypoints: 05:36.005N 118:32.062N; beware shallows at 05:35.599N 118:32.556E.

Further anchorages were in 3m at 05:37.244N 118:35.490E (river mouth) and on a subsequent trip we anchored in 7m at 05:37.988N 118:36.376E.

Exit Dewhurst Bay using 05:38.776N 118:36.922E and 05:39.488N 118:37.884E; this would be the southern entrance recommended for monohulls.

Dent Haven

We anchored here twice in 7m depth at 05:14.912N 119:15.533E. All on mud.

Pulau Gaya

This is a pretty island and worth exploring both for snorkeling and to the village.

We anchored in 8.5m at 04:35.545N 118:43.281E and on a second visit in 4m at 04:35.601N 118:43.389E.

Lahad Datu

This is a surprisingly nice, clean, ordered town with good market and supermarket. The entrance to this well sheltered port, passing fish-farm homes being pushed around by dinghies, is most interesting.
We anchored in mud in 7m at 05:01.052N 118:19.909E

Pulau Mabul

We anchored a few times here, as a base to dive Pulau Sipadan; there is good snorkeling at many places on this island: around bommies on the sand spit and on the opposite side, along a wall, particularly.

12.6m at 04:15.064N 118:38.246E

13.6m at 04:15.077N 118:38.197E

The Oil Rig Resort can be contacted for a memorable meal; their food and beverage manager requires at least a days notice to provision, however. They will fetch you from the boat: a bonus. Diving under the rig resort is said to be very interesting, if contrived (moray eel in the sunken toilet bowl, for example).

Horn Reef

This is simply an anchorage in the sand near the reef, a spot from where to easily swim to some lovely snorkeling bommies. At low tide the edge of the reef is clearly visible.

9.6m at 04:15.033N 118:26.148E

Tawau

This town is on the border with Indonesia.

The river is soft mud and holding is poor; we started in 4m at 04:14.969N 117:52.471E but dragged (as did the whole rally fleet); after we re-anchored at (almost the same spot) 04:14.970N 117:52.476E we were stable. There are several areas where eddies greatly affect the swing of the boats, such that even catamarans near each other will lie differently.

Facilities at the Tawau Yacht Club (pool, restaurants, showers, gym) are good, and staff is very friendly. We holed our dinghy badly at the end of the jetty: give the end a wide berth as there are sharp, upstanding remnants of old jetty structures that can only be seen at low tides. Locals will arrange to fill fuel jerry cans and deliver to dinghy jetty.

BRUNEI CRUISING NOTES

Serasa: Royal Brunei Yacht Club

This river anchorage is off the RBYC which is the only food establishment that caters for western visitors, and hence is fairly busy. Locals will help to fill jerry cans with cheap fuel (additional cans may be borrowed from club).

The anchor was set in 3.6m at 05:00.000N 115:04.163E. Others enjoyed anchoring further up the river but we did not get there.

A few days spent in Brunei city is time well spent.

Kuala Beleit

This river is further south in Brunei; it is very brown from tannin due to deforestation further upstream and ended up staining our sugar-scoop quite badly.

We anchored with less than 2m under the keel at 04:34.414N 114:11.713E.

SINGAPORE CRUISING NOTES

Singapore’s One 15 marina (01:14.675N 103:50.459E) works well and has restaurants, pools, gym, etc, fuel dock and shuttle transport to Viva City (a giant mall that also gives access to buses and underground / metro). It is also located very close to the Western Immigration area where you check in with the Immigration Boat. For a fee the marina will sort out the boat clearance, but the one stop customs / harbour master office is only a short bus ride away.

AIS equipment (at least a receiver if not also transponder) is extremely useful (essential?) and there is talk that Singapore will make it compulsory. At present it is not required for visiting yachts. A daylight passage is essential through the various port areas notwithstanding that the very dense traffic is disciplined. It is however best to, at maximum sustainable speed, slink along the edges of the channels and not make too much of any ‘give way / stand on’ vessel rules – turn or slow down to avoid collision courses or ensure that you are the ‘give way’ vessel in any situation which enables you to positively take avoiding action.

Thailand

THAILAND SAILING / CRUISING NOTES

July 2010 – September 2012

Ketoro is a 40’ Admiral catamaran with a 1.2m draft. The anchoring depths given are all under the keel.

These notes cover all anchorages we have experienced in the following areas: the west side of Phuket; the islands south of Phuket; Phang Nga Bay, also Krabi side; the mainland and islands north of Phuket to the Myanmar border; the Surin and Similan Islands; and the islands on routes down to Malaysia.

1                   Phuket Island West Coast

These anchorages should only be used in the NE monsoon season. Areas are covered from north to south.

Nai Yang
Anchored in 3m at 08:05.518N 98:17.737E. Lovely long beach with many loungers, massage, eating opportunities; great market on Tues, Thursdays, Saturdays. Take dinghy to beach near mid beach, a few metres north of the longtail anchorage; beware if taking the dinghy to the north end of the beach opposite the park as the water is rougher for landings here. Can be noisy at night with all the firecrackers and parties!

Ko Waeo

A nice day stop to snorkel around the small rock island; many mooring buoys available. We have also stayed overnight at 08:02.030N 98:15.584E and for calm conditions it was good.

Ko Kala

Anchored in 4.5m at 08:01.652N 98:17.125E. Very calm tucking in behind island, great rustic restaurant with good food on shore: Tomato. Take dinghy up left of the dive-flag poles or even further left, to be in the protection of the island therefore less swell. Lovely beach walking in this area, tide recedes far and leaves pretty sand patterns etc. River behind island can be explored at high tide; give yourself 2 hours (take water/drinks) to explore fishing boats, river, lagoon.

Ao Ban Thao

Anchored in 8m at 08:00.369N 98:17.354E. Long beach serving many resorts. Two young elephants (from Fantasea Show) are taken to the beach for tourist entertainment at 9:30 and 15:00.

Surin Beach

Anchored in 11m at 07:58.504N 98:16.517E. Beautiful small beach; best to get the dinghy onto the beach where the jet skis are based. Good range of restaurants and massage places. Can also take mooring buoys in front of Pla Seafood restaurant, they have rolly jetty in high season.

Laem Sing

Anchor 8m at 07:57.933N 98:16.627E. Pretty small beach, serviced with regular food/massage etc; only access from the road is steep rough path. Anchored off the lovely rock/tree area to keep away from longtails.

Kamala Beach

Anchored in 6m at 07:57.576N 98:16.757E. Nice beach; particularly beautiful at night time.

Patong Bay

Anchored in 4.5m at 07:53.323N 98:17.239E. Huge bay, many anchoring opportunities. In high season there is a long dinghy jetty onto the beach (at southern end) but it is best to keep a short distance away from this as there are many boats going to and from it, causing wake.

Freedom Bay

Anchored in 11m at 07:52.554N 98:16.362E. Beautiful small bay, used in day time by many longtails with day trippers but at night you will probably be alone in the bay. Nice snorkeling especially deeper at the rocks; we tied the dinghy onto the buoyed swimming line demarcation.  The beach in front of the resort at the north end of bay is fringed by coral at low tide.

Kata Beach

Anchored in 7m at 07:48.963N 98:17.759E. This is a long beach; on the north half is the Club Med and south of this is the general beach. Restaurants on the beach range from very pricey (top few) to reasonable (the two in the southern corner).

Nai Harn

Anchored in 10m at 07:46.431N 98:18.251E and in 10m at 07:46.385N 98:18.169E. Access to the beach by dinghy can be very difficult; most dinghies head down the buoy line demarcating the swim zone, or make for Jungle beach at the north end of the bay where there is a very small dinghy landing spot on the sand.  Some also swim into the main beach to get directly to the restaurants, massages, shops, etc. (The channel between the small island and Phuket may be used with care; err towards the island side where the shelf is more abrupt and visible.)

2                   South of Phuket

Ko Hae (Hi) – Coral Island

This anchorage gives good protection from winds and swells from the S and SW. 
We anchored at 07:44.871N 98:22.441E in 14m excellent holding. Took the dinghy to the beach, spoke to dive people who said snorkeling was best off Banana Beach where we took the dinghy (tied it off on the buoyed marker rope on the east side of the boat channel) and really enjoyed the snorkel in the slightly deeper area.

On another occasion, we anchored the boat off Banana Beach for the day’s snorkel, in about 17m: 07:44.774N 98:23.008E. We were happy with leaving the boat for a few hours, but would not have anchored there overnight. They now have buoys at 07:44.771N 98:22.981E.

Ko Racha Yai
In the SW monsoon season we anchored on the E side of the island, which is the back door to the main beaches and facilities but it is a short walk across the island! We anchored in 4m at 05:12.923N 99:03.978E. Walked the island but places were closed for the low season; the up-market resorts are all the other side, best to go NE season!

In the NE season we went to a bay on the west side. There are many mooring buoys; during the day most are taken up by day trippers and dive boats but if you get there later they may be free. Some buoys look to be too close to each other. If not available, anchor off in the bay in 10-15m.

3                   Phang Nga Bay Area

We were here in both the SW and NE monsoon seasons, dictating anchorages: on the East side of the islands in the SW monsoon and west of the island during the NE monsoon.

Ao Po Marina Call 69
07:48.955N 98:17.711E Better in SW season, they may be exposed in a very strong NE wind, although there are new breakwaters built. Restaurant nice but expensive; few services.

Ko Wa Yai
In the channel on the way to Yacht Haven marina; anchored in 6.5m at 08:07.278N 98:26.479E. Small beach, easy dinghy access.

Yacht Haven Marina Call 68

08:10.253N 98:20.354E. Large marina to tie onto; can also anchor off in good holding, apparently.
Very nice marina, well supervised and organized, good place to leave the boat (but we would not recommend Sea Marine services to care for the boat).

Boat Lagoon Marina Call 67 / 71

07:57.802N 98:23.212E. Very shallow channel, only accessible at high tide; boats sit in mud at low tide. You may request a pilot for entry and exit. Great services offered by the marina, many facilities, good location.

Ko Rang Yai

This island is to the east of the entrance to Boat Lagoon / Royal Phuket Marina and therefore is a convenient stop-over to wait for high tide before entering the channel to these marinas.
We used two anchorages: on the east side at 07:57.374N 98:27.390E and on the west side at 07:57.103N 98:26.801E. The former is particularly protected in SW winds, but is functional and gives no access to the beach; the latter gives fair protection in both seasons if weather is not too strong, and in addition provides access by dinghy to the long beach, restaurant, pearl shop etc. Take the dinghy onto the beach near to the shop area; too far right of this and you will be caught at low to mid tide by extensive rock-reef. Watch for strong tidal current if swimming from the boat.

Ko Naka

There are apparently lovely anchorages on the east but we have never used them (those on the south end have lots of jet-skis in season; the one on the north advertising “Cold Beer” is great!

We rafted up to friends anchored in about 3m at 08:02.651N 98:27.808E. There is extensive drying reef, so keep way off. A small river feeds into the sea; take this line out and use it to guide your dinghy in, but at low tide it is very shallow. Lovely soft beach to BBQ.

Ko Phanak

East side: We recommend 3 explorations on this eastern side of Ko Phanak.
We anchored at 08:11.375N 98:29.743E in 4m sand in good holding. Good protection unless winds are strong from north or east. This anchorage is a good spot from which to observe the day boats and see where they enter 2 of the caves/hongs:

• The furthest north is a walk-in cave entrance (leave dinghy on small beach to the right (north)) to be done with shoes and torches at mid-to low tide. Follow the tunnel to the most beautiful double hong.
• To the left of this entrance is an entrance for the dinghy or canoes (use torches); paddle in at mid-tide, ebbing. This takes you to a lovely underwater hong.

Anchor at 08:11.026N 98:29.694E in 5m to explore an obvious cave; leave the dinghy on the sand at the cave entrance; this cave can be done at all states of tide. Use shoes; take torches; take mosquito repellant. The most beautiful part is on the left towards the back where there is a tiered quartz waterfall which can only be seen in its splendor in your flash photographs of it!

West side: We have only been at one of the hongs on this side; anchored at 08:11.540N 98:29.109E in 5m. There is a small beach (with monkeys) south of which is a hong entrance at the top of the bay. Go into the hong at low to mid tide only; it may be very tight for a dinghy at the entrance and exit only, but a paddle-canoe will do. There were independent Thai dinghy operators at the entrance who coerced us into using their services (500ThB for 2pp)… and we enjoyed the facility.

Ko Hong (Phand Nga)
This anchorage gives protection in all winds except from the north. It can be a little rolly in the NE and the tidal current is strong; beware possible dragging.
We anchored at 08:13.604N 98:30.118E in 11m sand.

Very pretty island, anchored under sheer cliffs. At mid- to high tide, take the dinghy south (on this east side) into the beautiful lagoon. Once inside the lagoon, on the SW side of this lagoon is an entrance to a hong that can be accessed by the dinghy at mid tide, but it is quite tight (the lagoon is stunning, the hong not as lovely as those described above).

Ko Daeng Yai
Very pretty anchorage north and west of James Bond Island, in the channel with Ko Raya Ring to the east (beware very shallow areas on this east side). We anchored at 08:16.602N 98:29.010E in 3.7m. Approach is very shallow, to be taken slowly! 

Ko Thalu

Dropped anchor in 8m at 08:17.986N 98:28.613E for a short visit to the lovely tunnel that goes right through the base of the island / mountain. Lovely.

Ko Raya / Ko Thalu Nok

This is on the way to the gypsy village, Pan Yi, and gives easy access to getting the dinghy into all the hongs and through the tunnel here; you cannot miss it, as there will be many tourist canoes in the area, but it is fun to see and do. We anchored in 2m at 08:17.734N 98:30.334E but coming from the deeper channel you can easily stop further out where deeper.

Ko Khai

08:15.239N 98:30.537E in 5.4m. Ko Khai is really beautiful, with interesting overhangs and a balcony to climb onto to see the small cave; tiny pretty beach on the east side.

Ko Roi

This is a really beautiful anchorage but can be a little rolly in the SW. Wave refraction round the sides of the island in seas from the N make for a complex pattern under the boat too, but avoid the temptation to  tuck in too close as there is a shelf of reef! Nonetheless we always felt comfortable and the holding is excellent in thick mud…. This needs to be sprayed off with the deck-wash as the anchor is lifted. Anchored in 8m at 08:11.582N 98:36.611E.

To the south of the smaller (more northerly) beach is the entrance (on foot) to a very large and really lovely hong, exceptionally easy access at all but high tide. The other beach is accessible at mid to high tide.

Ko Ku Du

6.5m at 08:11.849N 98:38.081E; beautiful anchorage, explore around both islands by dinghy; the lagoon on the south is beautiful.

Ko Yao Yai: Ao Labu

Fairly large bay but has extensive shallow areas, so before using the dinghy to go to shore, watch where the local fishing boats go, to get an idea of the channels. We anchored on the north side in 5m at 08:01.613N 98:33.721E, in good holding mud.

Ko Yao Yai: South Bay

Very big bay which gives good protection except to winds from the south. However, even when there is no weather, the water gets a roll from the day boats passing the bottom of the bay at speed, but this is not bad. We anchored in 3m at 07:53.549N 98:35.319E. Access to the village difficult at low tide: watch where longtails go.

Ko Khai Nui
This is not named on the charts; small rock island north of very busy day-time Ko Khai Nok. There are several mooring buoys, quite close together; 07:53.840N 98:30.742E was good overnight. There is a lovely restaurant on shore (expensive, especially drinks), the Chok’D; they are apparently only open at day time, closed Mondays, but when we have been there out of those hours the staff has opened for us nonetheless! (Enterprising/moonlighting!?) Owner: +66817889470

Ao Chalong

Prior to 2012, most yachts anchored to the north of the long pier but we have anchored quite comfortably on the south side (near the edge of the diveboat moorings) at 07:48.959N 98:21.278E in about 6m with good holding. Anchor brings up mud and the deck wash may be needed when lifting. There are now a large number of mooring buoys on the yacht side that we have been most comfortable with, although some are placed quite close together.

Getting the dinghy tied up is now very easy as there was a new marina planned (south of long jetty) but it now simply acts as an extensive dinghy-tie area: very easy access for yachties now where before, getting the dinghy tied up (and you out of it) on the floating pontoon at the end of the pier was a real mission….

Panwa Bali

(This is in Ao Chalong, opposite the Novotel.) We anchored in 6m at 07:48.684N 98:22.977E. Lovely anchorage, great beach restaurants, can hire a bike/car from here.

4                   Krabi Side of Phang Nga Bay

The following are co-ordinates taken from our track when passing through the channel between Ko Yao Yai and Noi. We passed east to west, entering the channel 90 minutes before high tide with a high declared 3.1m above CD. We had up to a knot of current in our favour; current floods from Krabi to Phuket. We saw least depth 2.6m under our keel.
08:04.683N 98:97.003E
08:05.084N 98:36.102E
08:05.374N 98:35.508E
08.05.395N 98:34.463E
08:05.724N 98:33.466E
08:06.540N 98:32.226E
08:07.180N 98:31.806E

Khlong Marui and Khlong Pak Lao

This is easiest approached by going north from Ko KuDu or the north end of Yao Noi. The khlongs are mangrove-sided rivers feeding back from the bay. Very interesting to travel and observe local fishing and tiny homes hiding amongst the mangroves. 

The following waypoints give our track to anchor in Khlong Marui, starting from between the two sisters.

08:21.139N 98:36.914E
08:21.466N 98:36.983E
08:22.262N 98:37.757E
08:22.513N 98:38.090E
08:22.677N 98:38.758E
We anchored in 5m at 08:22.697N 98:39.444E.

The tide races up and down this muddy river; you are not going to swim!

Go by dinghy into Khlong Pak Lao; the waypoint where it feeds into Khlong Marui is 08:23.002N 98:40.105E (facing the mountain, Pak Lao is the entrance on the left of it). Khlong Pak Lao is a really beautiful river; once in it, take the second turn to the right and tie up at the steps which can be seen from Pak Lao itself: beautiful caves with paintings (very faint) and stalactites etc. Return to Pak Lao and turn right into it, then right again (about 40m away) into the next tributary. Follow the river into and through a magnificent tunnel through / under the mountain: wonderful! We went at mid-tide, incoming, but do not think the tide would affect access to this.

Ko Chong Lat

Anchor in 9m at 08:16.570N 98:37.855E; a very lovely area with fish-farm homes along one side of this large bay. Tide races through here. There is a huge rock not on chart (except as a drying area) at 08:16.697N 98:37.771E

Ko Khlui

4.5m at 08:14.385N 98:38.687E. (There are several anchorages given in the pilot books for this island.) Lovely area to explore, with extremely friendly fishermen and any number of opportunities to buy delicious prawns from them.

Koh Ba Tang

3m at 08:12.931N 98:35.471E for a pretty lunch stop.

Ao Muang (Ko Yao Noi)

Mooring buoy at 08:10.398N 98:38.246E. Nice visit to the Paradise Koh Yao Resort on shore to swim and have a meal. They will collect you from the boat; call Nadine Oliver +66818924760 or +6676584450. . If you take the dinghy in, tie it to the very end of the jetty (be guided in by the line of marker poles) but at very low tides you will be high and dry.

Ko Hong (Krabi)

Took a mooring buoy at 08:04.539N 98:40.816E. This looks onto a beautiful beach; take the dinghy north and round the top to see the very large, easy hong. When you exit the hong, a few hundred metres NE are some rocks which provide interesting snorkeling (I fell into a shoal of about 10 of the hugest barracuda seen for a very long time!)

Ko Dam Khwan (Chicken Island)

Beautiful anchorage but many day boats. Walked on the spit (“talay waek”) and saw 2 small black-tips; snorkeled west, north and east sides…. Great lion fish at latter. Several anchorages:

• Anchored east in 13m at 07:57.384N 98:48.711E, good holding.
• Anchored NW in 9m at 07:58.137N 98:48.308E (this was beautifully situated under the climbing rock-face)
• Anchored west in 12m at 07:57.552N 98:48.429E

Ao Nang
Pinched a mooring buoy at 08:01.708N 98:49.081E to visit for the day; be off it before the fishing boat returns!

Rai Lee Bay

Beautiful anchorage; 5m at 08:00.542N 98:49.957E. Use the dinghy to explore the cliffs further east; lovely restaurants; walking street ok but other side filthy.

Ko Phi Phi Don (this is just outside Phang Nga Bay)

Ton Sae Bay: There are many mooring buoys but these appear to be privately owned. We anchored in 14m at 07:43.892N 98:46.203E, good holding.

West side: Yongkasem Bay; anchored in 14m at 07:44.675N 98:45.691E. Pilot guide says this bay is good in all seasons but we found that a strong west wind deflects round the headland and comes at you from the north, hence pushing the boat close to the coral; beware!

NE side of island: Anchored in 15m at 07:46.723N 98:46.018E, good holding. Beware: when the tide goes out it leaves 200m of shallow waters and can leave you perilously exposed to reef!
This looks onto a long beach with several resorts and smaller eateries; dinghy access is via two channels…. Best to watch the day boats and longtails to see these.

Ko Phi Phi Ley, Maya Bay
Go early or late in the day to avoid the day trippers (millions of them) then you can take a mooring buoy and enjoy peace on this beautiful beach (movie “The Beach”).

5                   North of Phuket to Myanmar border

Kao Lak

Long pretty beach, many resorts; good holding in sand in 4m at 08:38.638N 98:14.413E.

Ko Ra

Beautiful quiet peaceful anchorage; we reached it going up the waterways from the southern end. Pretty mangroves, low islands, mainland in distance. 7m at 09:11.534N 98:17.630E, good holding.

Ko Kan Nui

Gorgeous islands, remote and quiet, anchored in 6.5m at 09:29.170N 98:22.201E

Ko Phayam

Buffalo Bay (the NW Bay): in 3m at 09:45.429N 98:24.253E. Dinghy access to the beach starting to get a little difficult as we were late in the season; easiest at the N end of the bay. Variety of resorts and restaurants.

Long Beach (SW Bay): in 5.4m at 09:43.588N 98:23.105E. Beach is very long…. And very wide at low tide, a long way to pull the dinghy! Dinghy landings easiest at N end. Lovely bars, restaurants; hire bikes mid-way up the road to travel the island; pier area interesting.

Ko Chang
Northernmost Thai island on this side; very pretty, very rustic; no bike hire; walk the island in 2 hours; a few eateries; small temple. Anchored in 5m at 09:50.190N 98:26.190E.

6                   The Surin Islands

Beautiful islands with a few pretty beaches (tiny at high tide) and stunning steep forested faces. Good snorkeling, diving; National Parks’ office and restaurant on shore. We were charged ThB400pp and ThB 100 per day for the boat. Well provided with mooring buoys; we had no need to anchor.

Ko Surin Nua Big Bay on south-east side of main island, eastern end of main bay 09:25.281N 97:53.896E; snorkeling interesting near the buoy and around the point.

Ko Surin Nua North West Bay 09:26.356N 97:51.226E; nice protected bay, can walk across to Parks area; not great snorkeling.

West end of channel between Ko Surin Nua and Ko Surin Tai 09:25.705N 97:51.400E; take dinghy through channel (not sure about low tide).

Ko Surin Tai SE side 09:22.782N 97:52.726E; swim to good snorkeling. Diving lovely off the rocks on the SW tip of the island and also on the east end of Koh Torinla, the small island west of these moorings.

Richelieu Rocks; mooring buoy at 09:21.775N 98:01.427E. Take dinghy to the mooring buoy at the pinnacle rocks and drop down the mooring line. Magnificent dive around 5 pinnacle rocks but beware of very strong currents here.

7                   The Similan Islands

Wonderful islands to visit in the NE monsoon season. When we were there, Similans 1, 2 and 3 were closed to protect the coral reefs. The National Parks charged 200ThB per person and issues a ticket that shows validity until the following Friday. Most of the islands have mooring buoys; they are generally reliable but should be checked by snorkeling; we found some that were very shallow.

Good scuba dive along the west coast of Similan 6. Access is by yacht and needs to hold station for duration of  dive. There is a mooring buoy at the southern edge of the  area but too far to swim.

Ko Similan 8
Mooring buoy at 08:40.016N 97:38.745E, 10m.

Ko Similan 5

Mooring buoy at 08:34.150N 97:38.691E, 8m.
Good scuba dive off the dinghy or from the moored yacht around the point to the east.

Ko Similan 4

Mooring buoy at 08:34.444N 97:38.021E, 7m.

8                   Phuket to Langkawi: North to South

Ko Lanta

• Hat Kan Tiang
  We anchored in 6.2m at 07:29.685N 99:04.281E; easy access to the shore…. There was a jetty belonging to a resort and when we tried to use it we were chased off. Super beach to walk; drinks at the Why Not? Bar were fun.
• Had Klang Dao (Ao Phra-Ae)
  Mooring buoy at 07:35.972N 99:01.941E.

Ko Ngai (Hai)

Anchored in 9m at 07:24.781N 99:12.851E, good holding.
Several resorts on the long beach, possibility to get a massage (resort prices).

Ko Muk

Anchored in 5m at 07:21.587N 99:18.494E, good holding. Lovely bay, good to explore on foot or dinghy. Many longtail boats. Also anchored in 3m at 07:21.547N 99:18.521E
Ko Muk West has “Emerald Cave” (Morakot), which is famous; one can anchor or take the mooring buoy at the entrance (07:22.136N 99:16.969E) and explore in dinghy or swim in (an easy 80m swim; use torch).

Ko Rok Nok

We have been here several times as this is a beautiful and convenient stop-over. Picnic supper on the beach!
Mooring buoy: 07:12.923N 99:03.978E; easy to snorkel from here but we believe the mooring buoy closest to the northern side of the bay has the best snorkeling.
Anchored in 11m at 07:12.750N 99:04.075E, good holding; beware of bommies when you put your anchor down…. Snorkel the anchor to check.
Do not take the mooring buoy close to the southern island west of the channel: there are very shallow areas here.

The National Parks charges 200ThB per person and issues a ticket that shows validity until the following Friday. However we were only charged once, in all our stops here…. If you arrive after they have finished work for the day you will not be approached for payment!

Ko Phetra

Anchored in 10m at 07:02.024N 99:28.268E. This island has a bad reputation for rolly waters, on both sides, but it was not too bad.

Ko Bulon Le

Anchored in 9m at 06:49.748N 99:32.727E, good holding.
There is a nice village on land and many fishing boats anchor off here.

Ko Bulan

Anchored initially in 5m at 06:49.058N 99:41.103E; this is a lovely bay but this day had a roll coming in from the south so we moved to Ko Bulan north (below). Another day anchored in 3m at 06:48.973N 99:41.044E

Ko Bulan North / Ko Khao Yai

Anchored at 06:50.184N 99:41.036E. This is a very pretty anchorage, looking onto two islands, and it appears seldom used by yachties so you are alone.

Ko Tarutao

• Ko Laen: Anchored in 12m at 06:42.740N 99:40.254E, good holding. Looks onto a pretty beach but litter at high tide mark; difficult to access beach in dinghy due to reef. Fish eagles.
• Anchored at 06:42.570N 99:39.947E in 11m, between Ko Laen island and Tarutao.
• Anchored in 17m at 06:37.481N 99:40.910E, good holding but sticky mud needs washing off. This is a really beautiful anchorage near natural forests and tiny beaches. There are nice walks on surfaced roads; take dinghy to the beach or tie to jetty/pier.
• Anchored in NE season at 06:41.853N 99:38.400E in 7m off long beach with mangroves.
• South Bay, well protected most weather, probably. Anchored in 5m at 06:31.215N 99:41.244E.

Butangs

• Ko Rawi
  Mooring buoy at 06:32.460N 99:09.729E in 12m. This is a beautiful area, lovely snorkeling, beautiful clear water

·         Ko Lipe
SW monsoon season: Anchored in 8m at 06:29.945N 98:18.667E, good holding in a pretty anchorage. Reasonable snorkeling near the rocks. On land, can eat at the Mountain resort. Also walk through village to the other side: there are several dingy places in this low season but also a really beautiful resort with pool etc.
NE monsoon season: Take a mooring buoy (do not get the ones too close to the square floating platform as the ferries tie on here to offload many passengers) or anchor off. We took the dinghy onto the beach on the north side of the northernmost buoyed swimming area. Lots of lovely small restaurants on the beach, ‘walking street’ across the island, is very worth a visit.

• Ko Ta Lang
  This is an amazing day stop to scuba dive straight off the boat.
  Take the mooring buoy at 06:29.064N 99:20.106E. The buoy is in good condition and tied onto a pinnacle at about 7m down. The dive round the pinnacle goes down to 15m and is magnificent.